Chandrashila - Where the Magic Starts

I woke up to a knock at the door of my room from a fellow traveler Lalima at 4.30AM. Excited she was to announce that the sky is clear. We took no time to get up and start trekking towards Chandrashila. It was biting cold sub zero temperature. The hands, nose, cheeks and lips were all red with cold and the heart was thumping not sure from the rush of blood due to trekking or from the anticipation of what awaits us.

It was a steep climb of around a kilometer with no specific path to follow. Cold and darkness made it even more tough. But as they say, "no pain no gain". Just when our stamina was shaking after around two-third of the climb, we took a turn and got a glimpse of what awaits us. The sky was deep orange and there were layers of mountain ranges visible. There was no looking back after that. Every second was precious. Our speed doubled and excitement increased many fold.  

 I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades 

We were on the top point in less than half an hour. I couldn't believe what I saw. I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades. In front were snow covered Himalayan peaks like Nanda devi, Chaukhamba and Trisul standing tall acknowledging our efforts.

The sky was all red, ready to welcome the Sun. And the hills were ready to embrace the day with open arms. Slowly the rays of the sun started appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak, lighting it and creating a golden outline... It looked like some magic was about to happen. The divine ball of fire, the source of every possible energy, the core of our creation appeared slowly from behind Nanda Devi leaving us spellbound. The love of God was all over in the form of fresh warm golden rays that lit the whole valley and the mountains.

The sun was up in its full glory in no time. It was the sign of a new beginning!  

P.S. - I was so engrossed in the magic happening in front of me that I forgot to take pictures. And I am glad I did, it is now all engraved so well in my memory disk. Below are the 2 mobile pictures I could manage while in the trance...

The rays of the sun appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak creating the golden magic  

Chaukhamba lit by the morning rays of Sun

Connect with me on Instagram and Facebook for more responsible travel adventures.

Also Read:

The Calm in the Chaos - VARANASI
In the Shadows of Dhauladhars - KANGRA VALLEY
The Thar Experience

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Reasons you must visit Pushkar

There’s a lot more to the oasis town of Pushkar than just the Camel fair that it is mostly associated with. Walk through the labyrinth of alleys and lanes, its bazaars and the ghats to discover the magic of this tranquil town. Below are a few things I love to do when I am in Pushkar.

#1.  Spend Dazzling Evening at Pushkar Lake

The aura around the lake, the reflections of the evening colors of setting sun and the music flowing around all adds up to making a memorable evening. Spending an evening at Pushkar lake always fills me with energy.

Sip hot coffee by the lake side andatch the day bidding adieu and a beautiful evening taking over. As the golden sun dips behind temples, lake water mirrors the changing hues of the sky from blue to orange and then red and slowly black takes over transforming the day into a beautiful night. Spend some quiet hours sitting on the stairs of the lake listening to the music coming from all directions - hymns and bells from the temple, nagara beats from the ghat, strumming of guitar from some cafe and sound of Ravanhatha being played by some bhopa musician sitting just next to you. While you are lost in the music, the lake turns gorgeous with reflection of town lights and numerous stars. I love watching the day end by the lake side and being just with me; slowly pilgrims leave temples, tourists go back to the market or the hotels, sanyasis go hiding into their kutiya and you are left alone on the stairs gazing at the glittering sky and the lake. The calm cool air from the lake fills you with tranquillity.

#2.  Camel Safari

Riding through the desert atop a camel is an amazing experience. I love to have a chat with enthusiastic camel men who are always happy to share their stories. If you want to know about the life in a desert village, he is the best person to talk to. Hear the stories while sitting 10 feet above the ground sailing through the desert. The slow moving camels will take you through dunes to a point from where you can watch beautiful golden ball dipping down beyond the horizon and the sky changing color from evening red to violet and then slowly darkness engulfing the whole expanse.

You can hire camels from the fairground or can ask your hotel to arrange for one. There is an option of camel cart too if you want to enjoy the ride with your friends or family. The best time to go on the safari is before the sun sets.

#3.   Hot Air Balloon Ride

If you are in Pushkar around the fair you must take a balloon ride. I love to glide gently above the crowd over the vast expanse of the dunes to get an amazing bird’s eye view of the fair and the desert.

The balloon ride is usually organised towards the end of the fair. The best time to take a ride is at sunrise when the soft rays of sun slowly lit the temples, ghats and the ancient buildings surrounding the lake. It’s an once-in-a-lifetime experience and capturing it all in morning light is a dream-come-true for any photographer. Advance booking is recommended to get the best time slots.

#4. Drive to Ajaypal ji

Ajaypal ji temple is located 10kms from Pushkar. Raja Ajay Pal, the founder of Ajmer City, founded this temple in 11th century AC. The temple is surrounded on all sides by boulders of marble which makes the site amazingly beautiful. I find the drive to Ajaypal ji one of the most scenic drives around Pushkar. It passes through the forest for initial 3kms which is replaced by the sand dunes and then the valley surrounded by the hills. I like to stop and spend some time with simple villagers talking and clicking. Most of the times when I do so, I am offered tea and local snacks. A mud house, huge veranda, a well, giggling kids, smiling ladies in their vibrant attire busy with house chores and cattle is what a typical home will comprise of. And men folk with colourful turbans can be seen sitting on a platform below a tree having hookah and chatting.

Rent a motor bike or a scooter from Pushkar market; look for the Bitumen road leading from the base of Savitri hill that takes you towards Kharekdi village. This road leads you to Ajaypal ji Temple. Rainy season (August- October) is the best time for this drive when the greenery is at its best and you can see springs, streams and waterfalls all through the drive.

#5.   Evening Aarti

Evening aarti is a not-to-miss experience for everyone, believer or non-believer. People in thousands assemble in the temples across the ghats. As the chants begin the atmosphere gets filled with the fragrance of incense sticks and roses. The sound of ringing bells comes in chorus from numerous temples surrounding the lake. The whole ambience feels divine and transports you to a different world altogether. While the evening sky fills with gold of setting sun, the lake looks gorgeous with numerous floating diyas.

You can attend aarti ceremony at any of the ghats but evening aarti at Varah Ghat is highly recommended. It commences at 7:00 pm during summers and 5:30 pm during winters.

#6.   Nagara lessons at Gangaur Ghat

Music is in the soul of Pushkar. While strolling around the lake in evenings, you can find many people learning and playing their favourite instruments. Around Gangaur ghat, look for coke-studio-fame Nathu Lal Solanki, the master drummer teachiing the beats to drumming enthusiasts. You can join him and learn to play these local drums called Nagara. He still charges a negligible amount that he used to charge some 20 years back To teach Nagara. He considers this place his karmabhumi from where he has achieved the name and fame and it’s his tribute to the place and the art.

#7.  Hiking on Ratnagiri hill to Savitri Devi Temple 

Do hike up the Ratnagiri hill in south-west of the lake if you have time. It’s a moderate hike of around 1.5kms and takes around two hours to reach the top. Located on the top is Savitri Devi Temple dedicated to the wife of Lord Brahma. The breathtaking panoramic view of Pushkar town from here is worth the effort. Evening hours are best for this trek as you get an amazing sunset view from the temple.

If you like hiking and are game for some more, on a smaller hill on the northern side of Pushkar town is Gayatri Devi temple. It takes around 45 min for this trek and offers a lovely sunrise view.

#8.  Shopping

Go for a good retail therapy session once you are done with all other planned activities. A good mix of ethnic and hippie culture reflects in Pushkar market. There’s a lot to shop for, so keep at least half a day exclusively for shopping. Pushkar is known for its traditional silver jewellery, ethnic clothes, leather bags and rose products. T-shirts, harem pants, wrap-arounds, kurtis, bandhanas and funky accessories are also available in abundance at a very reasonable price. Do not forget to bargain to get the best prices. You can also shop for souvenirs like puppets, antique silverware or pottery stuff.

The main shopping places are Baza Bazar, Sarafa Bazar, Sadar Bazar and Kedalganj bazaar.

#9.       Pushkar for foodies

Pushkar is heaven for foodies with a range of roadside restaurants, rooftop cafes and eateries serving wide variety of food. Some of not-to-miss foods in Pushkar are malpua and kachori at Sarweshwar at mithai wali gali, Gulkand Lassi near the steps of Brahma Temple, lafa and falafel at Ganga restaurant near Rangji temple, muesli and fresh fruit juice at Sonu juice near bus stand and pizzas at La-pizzeria.

Pushkar is such a place where you can spend days just having good food and relaxing in cool cafes. Some of Pushkar’s most popular cafes are Honey & Spice, Funky Monkey Cafe and Out Of The Blue Cafe.

#10.  Kalbelia dance performance

The best way to unwind after a fun filled day is to enjoy the Kalbelia dance performance. It is one of the most sensuous dance forms of Rajasthan performed by lively Kalbelia tribe, a nomadic community who were snake-charmers until it was outlawed by the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972. With their charm, unbelievably flexible serpentine shimmying and their lovely traditional black attire they have the talent to absolutely mesmerise you. The beats and the movements will surely instigate you to join them in their dance.

Many hotels arrange the dance performances in their premises for their guests.

And if you want to experience it all with the experts, you might want to join the group trip PULSATING PUSHKAR with Indian Terrains.

Connect with me on Instagram and Facebook for more responsible travel adventures.

Recommended reading:

The Calm in the Chaos - VARANASI

In the Shadows of Dhauladhars - KANGRA VALLEY

CHANDRASHILA - Where the Magic Starts

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Rejuvinate Yourself at Aamari Resort Ramgarh

I get invites from many big and small properties but I hardly get time to visit and review them all. This time around when I got the invite from Aamari resorts, a luxury resort in Nainital, something clicked. May be it was the perfect weather for an outing or it's location - the quaint Kumaon hills or it was meant to be like this. The property looked inviting in pictures on the net. So without any second thought, I instantly finalized the plan and headed towards it the very next day.

Started early morning from Indirapuram. Around a kilometer before Gajraula when I was looking for a place to have breakfast, an interesting sign board attracted my attention - "Enroute - The Dhaba". The place looked interesting, so thought of checking it out. A very good decision it was to stop there. The ambiance, the cleanliness, the staff all looked perfect. And the food was just amazingly delicious. (review in another post). Such a good start it was to the trip. 

It was an enjoyable 8 hrs journey through the villages, green fields and small market places. I took a detour from the highway through Suar and Kaladungi to make the drive more interesting. The road condition also is better on this route than the highway. Via Kathgodam, Nainital and Bhowali, driving on the picturesque road through pines I reached Ramgarh.

The scent of pines and the lovely view of the valley and the snow covered peaks welcomed me to my lovely abode - The Amaari Resort. 

Picture by Vinod Verma

The smiling staff showed me around and took me to my room. It's a huge property with 22 rooms and 3 villas located on a hill, Mine was a well designed room with huge glass window overlooking the valley. A hot shower after a somewhat tiring journey refreshed me to the core. A small walk in the woods there after made me forget all the worries and hurries of the busy city life and I was fully in the holiday mood.

The next day was spent exploring the surroundings. There's a lot that can be done in the area. Go to Mukteshwar temple located on a top of the hill, do bird watching at Maheshkhan, visit Sitla for a panoramic view of the gorgeous snow covered Himalayan ranges or just relax at the resort. I went to explore the nearby village Nathuakhan. Had fun time interacting with locals and having local sweets and snacks. After a tiring day, my evening was spent relaxing at the resort and enjoying the play of colors on the sky that created dramatic patterns along with clouds.

Picture by Vinod Verma

WHAT I LOVED:

The location:

A cozy corner in my room

The place had a welcoming aura to it.  It is placed beautifully on a hill amidst pine forest with a wonderful view of Himalayan peaks and is perfect for those looking for a relaxing vacation in the lap of nature.  Most of my time was spent by the huge glass window in my room sipping tea and watching the sky and peaks changing colors. I wasn't surprised to hear that Aamari is built on the same hill where the famous writer & poet – Rabindranath Tagore wrote the verses of his Nobel Award Winning Epic Geetanjali and also Poetess and Freedom Fighter Mahadevi Verma got the idea of writing her famous story “Lachma”.

The pool
The infinity pool overlooking the Himalayan ranges and the valley is the highlight of the resort. 

The range of activities:
Inspite of its remote location the resort has a wide range of activities to offer for all age groups and interests. The games room for kids, outdoor activities for the teenagers and adventurous lot, a well equipped gym for health freaks, the spa and sauna for relaxing, nature walks and bird watching for nature lovers. This makes the resort ideal getaway for group of friends, families and corporate, precisely everyone!

Activities in the resort

The classy restaurant and the smiling staff:
Tastefully done interiors combined with the tasty food and perfect service made the dining experience something to remember.
The well groomed local staff ever-ready to talk and help was commendable.

Picture by Vinod Verma

My cozy room, sleeping to the sound of wind passing through the pines, waking up to see the valley being slowly lit by warm sun rays, the nature and village walks in the day, the evening snacks and hot cup of tea by the pool side, watching the changing colors of the evening sky and sleeping while watching the stars at night... I loved it all!

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A Perfect Weekend Getaway Just A Few Hours Drive From Delhi!

Tip tap tip tap... as the drops of rain fall on the ground, on the leaves and on the slate roofs, we sit in a cozy balcony of our cottage sipping hot tea. We are surrounded by forest all around with a few village houses in the vicinity. Just a few moments before the golden rays of setting sun  had engulfed the whole valley creating dramatic patterns on the sky together with clouds.

Just 8 hrs drive from the capital city takes you to this tiny village Nathuakhan. It is a quiet place located at an altitude of 1940mt in Kumaon range of the central Himalayas. Just a kilometer before the market of Nathuakhan is a beautiful cottage that we had booked to spend a weekend in the lap of nature.

The drive from Delhi was enjoyable. We got to experience it all... sunny sky, clouds, rain, fog and again sun. We had no idea what the place will be like, all places look good online in pictures. But we were sure we will have good experience the moment we entered the place. There was warmth in everything. Ever-smiling staff to take care of every little thing; tastefully done interiors, nick-nacks placed in the outdoors; the cozy sitting areas inside and outside the cottage... that's exactly what we needed for a relaxing holiday away from the city.

A nice cup of tea in the lap of nature after 8 hrs long drive refreshed us

It's a paradise for bird watchers

Evening was spent exploring the surroundings. Small meandering path through fruit trees took us to the village. A small village with just a few houses with farms and the livestock. Just a kilometer away from the cottage was the local market.
A short drive little further took us to Sitla from where we got a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Himalayan ranges - Trisul, Nandadevi and Panchachuli. There's a shop here where you can buy locally made stuff that includes spreads, jams, juices, handicrafts etc.

Once back to our nest, we picked our corners to just relax and soak in the serenity of the place. The music from the wind chyme was the only sound we could hear. After a refreshing cup of tea, we all got together and enjoyed chatting in a cozy balcony lit by candle lamps creating a mystic effect.

We picked our corners to relax and soak in the serenity of the place

Had sumptuous dinner cooked and served with lots of care and love.

The living area became our favorite place. The wide range of books and music collection, the wooden interior, cozy couches made it a place you would want to spend days relaxing at. Just a night was not at all sufficient.

The living area 

I woke up to chirping of a bird on the window sill of the attic I stayed at. It was very early in the morning. The same lazy me who would not get up early morning for anything in the city, was up and straight at 5.30 am with no intentions to go back to bed again. Sitting in the small sit-out area of the attic sipping my morning tea, I could see the forest slowly getting lit and the life getting started in the village. The deep breaths of cool fresh air refreshed my body and soul. I was rejuvenated to take on the stress of busy city life again.

Bid goodbye to the team with a promise to be back again

It was a perfect getaway - "A home away from home" in a true sense!

----THE GUIDE----

HOW TO REACH:

On Road: New Delhi to Nathuakhan: 340 kms via Moradabad, Rampur, Rudrapur, Haldwani, Kathgodam, Bhowali, Malla Ramgarh, Talla Ramgarh. The journey takes approximately 8 hours. Parking lot available.
Other distances from Nathuakhan: Nainital - 40 km, Bhowali - 30 km, Mukteshwar - 14 km

By Train:

Ranikhet Express runs daily; Departure from Old Delhi at 10:40 PM, Arrival at Kathgodam at 5:20AM.

 Indian Railway Information available here

Khatgodam AC Express runs on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday; Departure from Delhi Anand Vihar at 6:00 AM, Arrival at Kathgodam at 11:55 AM. Indian Railway Information available here
Take a taxi from Kathgodam to Nathuakhan, a hill journey of 60 km.

The Village Stay - Home away from home

THE STAY

The cottage has 5 rooms and an attic.

The Attic: Perfect for a group of 4-5 friends. The attic has an attached bath.


FOOD

Meals are scrumptious and home-cooked. Local produce sourced from home garden or the neighboring farms is used.
Breakfast is a hearty affair, complete with eggs, porridge, flakes, bread, jams and spreads, and even poha or idlis or upma or parathas.
Lunch is usually an Indian vegetarian spread. Kumaoni/ Gujrati/ Bengali etc. The spread consists of a daal, vegetables, yogurt, salad, rice & chapati/ puri.

Indian, Continental, Mediterranean or Chinese cuisine is served as per choice in dinner. It starts with soup, main and side dishes and dessert. Bar-Be-Que too can be arranged. Non-veg is served for dinner for those who prefer it.

You can book your stay in this cottage at Homestays of India

If you also know places like these, do share in comment section. Would love to know :)

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Weekend trip to Mukteshwar

Fully loaded fruit trees, thatched roof mud houses and welcoming locals... Leaving behind the rush of the city life, we had entered a different world all together. Crisp air filled with pine fragrance welcomed us to this heaven. Just 8 hrs drive from Delhi, situated high in the Kumaon Hills at an altitude of 2286 meters (7500 feet), 51 km from Nainital and 343 km from Delhi, is this beautiful little town MUKTESHWAR.

We started early in the morning and driving through beautiful deodar and pine forest on lovely roads, we reached around 3pm. Our adobe was midst fruit trees some 10 kms away from Mukteshwar in a village called Dadim.

After having delicious lunch and relaxing with a cup of hot tea in the lap of nature we walked to the stream nearby. It took us no time to get into water to wash away the city pollution and stress. Fully refreshed we came back. Night was full of music laughter and gossip. Sitting by the side of fire we made new friends and chatted our hearts out with the old ones.

We woke up to a cool bright morning. It was mid June and the fruit trees were full with fruits ready to eat. Breakfast started and ended with fresh peaches, plums and apricots. I can still feel the taste of those fresh fruits in my mouth.

Mukteshwar is blessed with deodar forest inhabited by various beasts and rare mountain birds and offers a a panoramic view of 22 pristine snow-peaks that include Nanda Devi (25646 ft), Nanda Ghunti (20702 ft), Trishul (23360 ft) and the Panchachuli massif (22650ft). And it was a lovely cool sunny day to explore it all.

First we went to this 350-year-old temple of Shiva, known as Mukteshwar Dham, situated atop the highest point in the region. I sat quietly at back side of the temple from where the whole valley was visible. Those few minutes of silence, while the crisp cool air caressed my face and strong scent of pines and morpankhi went somewhere deep inside, bought back so many childhood memories.
No wonder Noble laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore started writing Gitanjali here at Mukteshwar.

Close to the temple lie these overhanging cliffs, locally known as Chauli-ki-Jali. A narrow lane to the left of the temple stairs took us to those cliffs. There is an excellent view of the valleys from Chaulli ki Jaali, where rocks jut out from the hill face at a bizarre angle. This is a great place to observe eagles and other feathered scavengers as they swoop down at their prey. 

Such a lovely place it was with an excellent view of the valleys below. I just wished there was a little less crowd.
Some of us did rock climbing, rappelling and zip-lining. For me the charm of visiting small town like this lies in enjoying nature, listening to air gushing through deodar forests, watching birds and feeling the silence, so I went deep into the forest and relaxed there.

Rather than going back in car we decided to trek back to our camps. It was a lovely trek of around 4km passing through pine forests. The way was covered with dry pine needles which made it quite slippery and difficult to come downhill. But at the same time it was fun. Short breaks to get the mesmerizing view of the valley, feel the crisp air on our face and enjoy wild berries. 

After a satisfying walk for around 2hrs we could see the village. And the first thing we noticed were fruit trees. We could not resist those rosy red plums hanging from branches and without any thoughts just barged in the garden and enjoyed those fresh fruits. The best part of the area is the locals (owners of these fruit trees). They don't mind you picking a few fruits and eating. God bless these simple souls.
Eating, chatting, clicking and enjoying the pitter-patter of rain that had started, we came back fully satisfied.

SOME USEFUL INFORMATION:

Places of interest:

Mukteshwar Dham, The IVRI laboratories, Orchards of Central Institutes of Temperate Horticulture-Regional Station and Snow-peak views from Chauthi jali 

Road route from Delhi:

Delhi - Mohan nagar - Ghaziabad - Gajraula - Moradabad - Haldwani - Kathgodam - Bhimtal - Padampuri - Mukteshwar

Places to stay:

IVRI hostels and the PWD rest house are the oldest ones.

Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) operates a tourist rest house (can be booked from Delhi as well as on phone/wireless from other KMVN guest houses). 

There are several hotels, resorts, guest houses and seasonal tent/hut-based camps in the area.

Tempted to go? Check ChaloLetsGo for a weekend trip with a group of travellers.

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Chopta - Tungnath Trek

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.” ~ John Muir

We started our journey with this thought in mind with a lively bunch of people from Delhi. Our first halt was at Rishikesh where we reached late in the evening. The walk absorbing the silence and beauty of the starry night brought us out of the humdrum of city life. A perfect start to a holiday in the lap of nature.

We woke up to a beautiful wet morning. Earth was fresh as dew and atmosphere was filled with the fragrance of flowers and foliage. Morning tea never felt so refreshing like it did that day.

Refreshing morning at Rishikesh

Singing, chatting, laughing and enjoying the drive through dense forests and Himalayan villages we reached CHOPTA. Clean roads, sweet breeze carrying the fragrance of nature and chirping birds welcomed us.
We had driven deep into the pines to reach this remote place where there were no mobile signals and no electricity. Such a respite it was to be cut off from the world in this paradise. We were awestruck to see the lush green meadows and dense forest. Everyone just refused to settle in rooms and were out in the woods. Some were walking silently just enjoying the serenity while others were chasing birds and clicking while some others were just sitting with their feet dipped in chilled water. It took some time to get them all together to enjoy the tea.

Evening tea in the lap of nature, literally

It was a breathtakingly beautiful, dark yet glowing mysterious full moon night. The clouds were playing hide and seek with the moon. The trees were standing tall trying to reach out to the moon while the meadows silently lying down enjoying the glow of moon light.  The only sounds in this dark night were of the stream nearby and of howling wolfs that were adding to the mystic feel to the night. The sky was studded with numerous big and small starts shining bright giving competition to the moon. Never before have I witnessed a night so beautifully mysterious.

A short break during the trek

We started our trek on this gorgeous hilly terrain early in the morning. While take careful steps on the wet, a bit slippery paved path through thick forest of rhododendrons and oak, it was difficult to imagine our life back in the
city.
The deep valleys, the lush green open meadows and the magnificent Himalayan ranges make you feel so tiny. We were transported to a different world altogether.
Different plantations - algae, mushrooms and what not attracted our fancy. We were going pretty slow enjoying and absorbing each step and turn of the trek. 4 hrs trek would take the whole day it seemed. But whats the hurry, we took our own sweet time to climb up and reached Tungnath in the later half of the day.

Different plantations attracted our fancy

We were all hungry when we reached. After having maggi as an appetizer we had nice local dal and rice. Once our tummies were full we looked around and realized where have we reached. A small place with couple of shops, very few people... rather just a few shop owners around, and a temple, TUNGNATH.
High above the clouds lay this quaint place called Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple in the world. We went a little farther and reached the end of a cliff. Surrounded by the curtain of clouds we found ourself standing on the edge. On one side were the snow covered peaks and on the other side was this deep valley.

At The Edge of The Cliff

In no time fog engulfed the whole valley and everything got out of site. We were not even visible to each other. One wrong step and we would have gone deep down the cliff. We decided to settle in the temple guest house for some time to regain our energy.

It was all so quiet when we came out after a few hours . The area was still under the cover of fog, when we heard the temple bells ringing. It was evening aarti. The thick fog started to disperse and visibility kept increasing with increasing volume of ringing bells. We could see the blue sky appearing magically from behind the clouds. Sun was about to set and there was amazing play of evening light in the sky. The golden reflection of setting sun on snow covered peaks made them glow like gold. and the sky turned orange with the spread of evening colors.

The Magical Evening

Can't say if God exist or it's just the faith of people, but the magic moment I witnessed up there makes me believe in the Ultimate power that created universe - the magnificent nature and its miraculous beauty. We were all mesmerized by the nature's show that we just witnessed. The ringing of bells stopped and gradually darkness engulfed the whole valley. The whole universe seemed to be in synchronization.

Night was no less engaging. It was more than 12 of us in a small kitchen cum sitting area of Raju hearing his stories over dinner celebrating life and rejoicing our togetherness. He is one of the survivors of the Kedarnath tragedy that happened a year before. Talking to him we realized how connected these people are to nature and how well they have understood the zist of life while we city people are still stuck in the frantic race of life.


Plan it with Chaloletsgo!

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Exploring the mystic city of VARANASI

I rose early in the morning to the sound of hymns. The same loudspeakers that sound nuisance in Delhi were a music to ears with soothing hymns playing in the backdrop of a beautiful morning.
Just a few souls were up and sitting along the Assi ghat waiting for the sun to rise from behind the horizon. We were all game for the boat ride along the ghats.

A Beautiful Morning At Assi Ghat

It was almost dark when we started the ride. Our boat man Raju was a quiet man from a village nearby. He has never been out of Varanasi and doesn't feel the need too. He is happy and contended by taking people on a ride and earning just enough to raise his family.

Morning Boat Ride Along The Ghats; Picture by Vinod Verma

Slowly the darkness was being taken over by the light of the day. The noise and hulchul along the ghats was increasing.  Crossing Dasaswamedh, Harish Chandra ghat, Scindhia ghat, Jain ghat, Hanuman ghat and many other big and small ghats We reached Manikarnika Ghat. Every ghat seemed to be different. While some are the burning ghats others are famous for their glorious architecture... Some ghats are considered to be very pious and many pilgrims can be seen taking bath while others are occupied by dhobis washing clothes. 

We were engrossed in watching and clicking life at the ghats when one of us almost shouted "There..!". On the other side was a small orange ball peeping from the horizon. It was just a bit of it that was visible initially. But slowly and gradually the deep orange ball of fire came out of the horizon and showed its full face. I was mesmerized by the sight. My trance was broken by the clicks of cameras. We could not get enough of it and our cameras were continuously clicking to capture this magic moment. It's these memories and moments that keep us going in the hustle bustle of the city life.

The Mesmerizing Sun Rise 

Life Along The Ghats

Varanasi, built along the length of the river Ganga is one of the oldest living city in the world. It's mysterious nature has always intrigued me. Life along the ghats is always full of stories. A man chanting on top of his voice and another one quietly playing Veena; dead body of a man lying unattended by the side of the burning ghat waiting for its turn while another family taking a holy dip; a foreigner happy couple all dressed in Indian costume and a young boy dressed as a sanyasi...
I wish I had enough time to sit and chat with them all to know what bought them to this mysterious city.

Evening aarti specially at Daswamedh ghat is something people highly recommend but to be honest I found it overrated and overdone. Loudspeakers were way too loud, pandits performing rituals were spotted using abusive language when they were not in their too bright satin saffron robes... they looked and behaved more like funny models than spiritual beings.
It was a treat though to watch diyas float on the ghat and to witness a beautiful day turning into a gorgeous night... It would have been a perfect spiritual setting provided the aarti was done by heart rather than to show off.

Next evening we attended the aarti rituals at Assi ghat. I found that simpler and from the heart.

The day was spent exploring the market, lanes and temples in the city. The attraction of the day was a visit to the weavers colony where we saw benarasi sarees being woven. We were told that a single saree takes from a month to 3 months depending upon the intricacy of the design. We were then taken to a showroom from where we bought some and felt we got good bargains. On asking weather he gets commission for taking us to the workshop and showroom, the autowala who took us there told us that he gets gifts from the owner on festivals and financial help whenever required. And best thing is that help is provided on non returnable basis. Good to know!

Visit to Varanasi is incomplete without buying a Banarsi Saree

Temples we visited include Sankat Mochan, Kashi Vishwanath and Durga. Though I am not a Temple person it's good to visit these historical places for the architecture and to see the faith of people. Beware of the pandas though who are there just to mint money.

Exploring the surround areas was equally enchanting. We visited Ramnagar fort (on boat from Assi ghat), Benaras Hindu University campus (an auto took us around the whole campus) and Sarnath (took a taxi) in following days.

Ramnagar Fort houses a museum, residential complex of the king and Ved Vyas temple. Many carved balconies, open courtyards & picturesque pavilions are part of this fort. Vidya Mandir Museum or Darbar Hall inside the fort gives the reflection of a court that once existed. Museum displays royal collection of a variety of old armory, swords, old guns, vintage cars, antique clocks, ivory work, medieval costumes, gold & silver royal palkis (Palanquins), silver elephant saddles carved out of silver, jewelry, furniture, costumes, etc.. It also has rare manuscripts, Mughal miniatures, which are the prized collection of this place.

Ramnagar Fort

Banaras Hindu University Campus Established in 1916 by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya is one of the largest residential universities in Asia, with over 20,000 students. The university's main campus spread over 1,300 acres (5.3 km2) was built on land donated by the Kashi Naresh, the hereditary ruler of Banaras.

Banaras Hindu University

Sarnath - Spiritual center of Buddhism where Buddha attained enlightenment and spoke the first sermon of what became Buddhism. We visited Chaukhandi Stupa, Dhamek Stupa, Mulagandha Kuti Vihar and the archaeological Museum and excavated area.

Sarnath

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In the wilderness of Dudhwa

 EXPERIENCING DUDHWA – The Exciting Elephant Safari

As we drove towards Salukhapur, we were moved by the grandeur and majesty of the saal forest in the cool early-morning light. At Salukhapur we were introduced to Batalik, our elephant. To our surprise there were no railings on the platform on elephant’s back. Handling a camera and kit on the elephant while you are fully loaded with winter wear and also sharing space with 3 others was an experience in itself. Soon we adjusted to the rolling gait of the pachyderm and settled in.

The Exciting Elephant Safari

We were mesmerized by the sight, sounds and scent of fresh morning in the heart of the jungle. Tall saal trees whispering to the sky above gave shelter to thousands of birds. As we passed through the uneven terrains of the jungle, enthralled and captivated, the sound of dew drops kept falling on the leaves resulting in rhythmic music. Shy golden rays of sun could hardly reach the wet bushes and leaves longing for the warm touch. We were lost in the magic of wild Dudhwa when our mahout silently pointed towards a pair of Rhino roaming around lazily in the grassland completely ignoring our presence. Rhinos are quiet species and generally never charge until they are disturbed. So without disturbing our dear friends we quietly clicked some shots and proceeded further.

Rhino Roaming Around Lazily

While on our way back to the rest house a huge herd of wild elephants crossed our way. I never had witnessed such a sight. There were more than 30 elephants old and young crossing the road.

RAIDING SATHIYANA – In search of “Her”

A leopard along with her cubs has been sighted recently in the area and is supposedly still around the rest house. We have brilliant chance of sighting her, we were informed. We kept driving the rough terrain slowly along the guided way. It was good to observe the jungle movements as our vehicle passed along the tall trees, the grasslands and the bushes. While on our search for the leopard we experienced the hidden life of the jungle. Suddenly a herd of deer or some peacocks or a wild boar would come on the track and startle us. We also spotted a few crocodiles lying lazily on the marshes at the bank of river Suheli.

As the warm golden rays of sun bade goodbye to the calm playful forest changing its colors from playful to tense, the sounds of the jungle also grew intense with a dash of mystery for us. We knew we were surrounded by all kinds of wild animals including boars, hyena, lynx and leopard and there is lot of action going on. As we were lost in the magic of the dusk, we heard some shriek calls of Langoor. We were informed that a leopard is around. The startled langoors had all climbed up to the highest branches of the trees.  We silently paid attention, though we could not see a thing but we could clearly feel the fear and tension in the atmosphere. The calm and quiet had suddenly broken into confusion and pressure. Amongst all this confusion one (leopard) might have got Dinner for her family while the other (deer) might have lost her mother. That’s how nature works. We decided to respect the Jungle rules and leave the beast to feed on the feast.

MORNING SAFARI – No less than a Dream

It was a cool misty morning. We were mesmerized by the beauty of the Jungle. Sun peeping from behind the clouds, the silk cotton Trees and palash trees standing tall in the vast green grasslands created a magical effect. 

Palash Trees Standing Tall in the Vast Grasslands

The jungle was in full action quite opposite to our expectation due to a dull day. A deer running here and a peacock dancing there; flock of strokes flying over you and kingfisher fishing; it seemed we have entered some dreamland. 
We could spot a lot of birds including jungle owlets, crested serpent eagle, Bush-chat, Bulbul and Barbet.  On our way back we were amazed to find a herd of golden spotted deer grazing on the track. We observed and clicked the herd to our heart’s content. More so as it was the last safari of our trip we wanted to capture the beauty in our cameras, eyes and heart.

The Herd of Golden Spotted Deer

Exchanging our travel experiences, singing songs, having deep discussions and lots of fun and laughter – that’s how we ended our amazing trip.  

SOME USEFUL INFORMATION:

Located on the Indo-Nepal border in the district Lakhimpur-Kheri in Uttar Pradesh, Dudhwa National Park (680 sq km), together with Kishanpur (204 sq km) and Katerniaghat (440 sq km) Wildlife Sanctuaries, represent the best natural forests and grasslands left in the Terai region of Uttar Pradesh.  The three Protected Areas, being the last viable home of the Royal Bengal Tiger in the state, have been jointly constituted into Dudhwa Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger. They are highly productive habitats of diverse flora and fauna and home to diverse species. The vegetation is of the North Indian Moist Deciduous type, containing some of the finest examples of Sal forests in India, as well the most extensive tracts of moist grasslands that remain in this region. The fauna includes, apart from sizable populations of Tiger and Leopard, a viable population of a nominate sub-species of the Swamp deer or Barasingha, a population of Indian One-horned Rhinoceros successfully reintroduced in 1984, and certain critically endangered species like the Bengal Florican  and the Hispid Hare, adding to the marvels of Dudhwa.

There is an enviable bird life with over 450 resident as well as migratory species. Dotted with a number of shallow lakes or taals, there are diverse, perennial sources of freshwater in the reserve. The Sharda River flows by the Kishanpur WL Sanctuary, the Geruwa River flows through the Katerniaghat WL Sanctuary and the Suheli and Mohana streams flow in the Dudhwa National Park, all of which are tributaries of the mighty Ghagra River. Some of the important taals are the Bankey, Kakraha, Amaha, Bhadi and Bhadraula. The taals, streams and rivers support a rich variety of turtle species, the Mugger crocodile, (Crocodylus palustris), the unique and endangered fish eating crocodile or Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus) as well as the Gangetic dolphin (Plantanista gangetica),which are found in the Geruwa.

The best time to visit: The Park remains open to public from November to June, though the months of May and June are a little too hot for comfort. While visiting the Park during winter you must remember to take woolen clothes as it can get pretty chilly, particularly between December and February.

Need to know:

• Park timings are from 7AM to 10 AM and 3PM to 6 PM. The best point to start your park trip is at the Dudhwa Forest Office, where you can get information from the foresters about everything ranging from accommodation to safaris.
• The entire park is administratively divided into nine ranges of which only Sathiana, Bankati,  Sonaripur, Salukhapur, Belrayan and Kila have accommodation facilities.
• Elephants can be hired from the office near the park gate or from the Salukhapur Chowki for Rs. 100/head.
• A library at the Dudhwa office provides information about the park. A nature shop located near-by sells books and other souvenirs.

All visitors to the park require an entry permit, which can be obtained from the director of the park. For more information and entry permit you can contact: Director, Dudhwa Tiger Reserve, Distt Lakhimpur Kheri, Uttar Pradesh. Tel: 05872-252106.

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