Chandrashila - Where the Magic Starts

I woke up to a knock at the door of my room from a fellow traveler Lalima at 4.30AM. Excited she was to announce that the sky is clear. We took no time to get up and start trekking towards Chandrashila. It was biting cold sub zero temperature. The hands, nose, cheeks and lips were all red with cold and the heart was thumping not sure from the rush of blood due to trekking or from the anticipation of what awaits us.

It was a steep climb of around a kilometer with no specific path to follow. Cold and darkness made it even more tough. But as they say, "no pain no gain". Just when our stamina was shaking after around two-third of the climb, we took a turn and got a glimpse of what awaits us. The sky was deep orange and there were layers of mountain ranges visible. There was no looking back after that. Every second was precious. Our speed doubled and excitement increased many fold.  

 I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades 

We were on the top point in less than half an hour. I couldn't believe what I saw. I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades. In front were snow covered Himalayan peaks like Nanda devi, Chaukhamba and Trisul standing tall acknowledging our efforts.

The sky was all red, ready to welcome the Sun. And the hills were ready to embrace the day with open arms. Slowly the rays of the sun started appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak, lighting it and creating a golden outline... It looked like some magic was about to happen. The divine ball of fire, the source of every possible energy, the core of our creation appeared slowly from behind Nanda Devi leaving us spellbound. The love of God was all over in the form of fresh warm golden rays that lit the whole valley and the mountains.

The sun was up in its full glory in no time. It was the sign of a new beginning!  

P.S. - I was so engrossed in the magic happening in front of me that I forgot to take pictures. And I am glad I did, it is now all engraved so well in my memory disk. Below are the 2 mobile pictures I could manage while in the trance...

The rays of the sun appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak creating the golden magic  

Chaukhamba lit by the morning rays of Sun

Connect with me on Instagram and Facebook for more responsible travel adventures.

Also Read:

The Calm in the Chaos - VARANASI
In the Shadows of Dhauladhars - KANGRA VALLEY
The Thar Experience

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Tungnath - Nature's Playground

I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—sky, clouds, mountains, trees. I thought, "This is what it is to be happy"

Standing on a cliff at an altitude of 3,680 m (12,073 ft), this is exactly what my feeling was. All the tiredness of 3hrs trek disappeared immediately. All I could feel was the happiness... happiness of being there at that moment. Nothing else mattered, how I reached, what I have come for, what I have left behind... all this was meaningless. All that mattered was I WAS THERE, I was there to witness the magnificent beauty of nature!

HAPPINESS

The sight of deep valley spread below, the onrush of cool breeze from those lands faraway, the misty smell and the sound of silence up there.. overwhelmed me.

Himalayan griffon chasing their prey 

Tea shop owner on the way to Tungnath

An easy trek of around 4kms on a well paved path through oak and rhododendron forest brought me to this heaven called Tungnath, the highest of the panchkedars. On the way were a few tea shops that were such a respite for the trekkers. It was not just the refreshing tea or the rhododendron juice but also the sweet simple smile and the innocence of these pahadi people that refreshed us from time to time.

Being there on the top of the hill witnessing the nature unfolding its marvels is one the best experiences of my life. When we reached, it was sunny, clouds playing hide and seek with the sun. We lied down on the cliffs basking. The sun rays never felt so soothing in the city. After a few hours as the time of sunset approached, the sky turned into a canvas and the evening colors started spreading all over, making beautiful painting like patterns. The dark clouds covered the sun and the rays trickled through, lighting the valley golden while we could see the sky above clouds still untouched by the golden hues. Far away was one lonely cloud, so blue, wandering alone... as if looking for a partner to color it red. And in no time others realized and merged with it turning it pink. Slowly the evening colors started spreading all over... golden, orange, pink, purple... can't say when the colors changed and darkness took over the whole valley and the sky.  We were mesmerized by this whole play.

Witnessing the divine sunset from the cliffs at Tungnath

Night was no less dramatic. We found ourselves standing in the middle of clouds when suddenly a breeze came and took away all the clouds exposing the star studded sky. We could now clearly see the twinkling stars big and small, in clusters and alone, bright and light... all together making the sky look amazingly gorgeous. While we were lost in this beautiful vista, another cloud came hovering over from nowhere covering it all again... As if saying that's all for the day folks. Good Night..!

I woke up to a knock at the door of my room from a fellow traveler Lalima at 4.30AM. Excited she was to announce that the sky is clear. We took no time to get up and start trekking towards the Chandrashila. It was biting cold sub zero temperature. The hands, nose, cheeks and lips were red with cold and the heart was thumping not sure from the rush of blood due to trekking or from the anticipation of what awaits us...!

To be continued... 

*This trip was done with ChaloLetsGo travel group

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Pangong Lake - A Gorgeous Wonder!

The journey was no less than the destination...

It is an amazingly beautiful drive of around 6hrs from Leh on a dramatic mountain terrain via Karu and Sekti village.

We started early morning with Tenzing, an experienced and cheerful driver from Leh. We drove through the vast barren landscapes with small villages and some greenery appearing every now and then. This was followed by the barren mountains of interesting shades of blue, grey and purple. They soon started to get white with snow and was fully snow covered as we approached The Chang La (17,590 ft.), world's third highest pass. We took a break to have hot meal of maggi and bread omelette at then-highest cafe of the world. Now the highest cafe is at Khardung La.
As the day progressed water on the roads started increasing. Glad we were to have listened to our driver and started early morning.

Travel Tip - One need to hire cab from Leh as taxis from outside Leh are not allowed to ply on this road. Start from Leh as early as possible. Water on roads will keep increasing as day advances.

 

The view of the road that we came driving on from Chang La

It is always good to start as early as possible from Leh 

The drive was more or less smooth except for a few places near the pass. There are many interesting road signs from BRO that make the journey even more enjoyable. Below are a few of them that fascinated me:

"Be gentle on my curves."

"Don't be a gamma in the land of Lama"

"Darling I want you but not so fast"

"Feel the curves, do not test them"

"Mountains are pleasure only if you drive with leisure"

"Love the neighbor but not while driving" 

A little farther on the road we met these cute little creatures called Marmots. They came out of their burrows as we were passing by. They did not seem to be shy at all. Rather they seemed curious and playful. It was fun playing with them and clicking them.

A curious Marmot spotted on the way to Pangong approaching the camera 

The Gorgeous Pangong Tso...
While we were still in the awe of meeting marmots, we saw a hint of brilliant blue in the barren brown terrains. I could not believe my eyes. The whole tiredness and the cold disappeared and we were filled with a joy, excitement and anticipation of what is in store. The moment is still engraved on my mind. It was surreal to see almost every shade of blue in sparkling water in these barren lands.

Brilliant hues of blue in the barren brown terrain - the first view of Pangong lake

This was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful creations of nature that I had ever seen. The sight of unending expanse of deep blue water and the spectacular Changchenmo range in the backdrop. 

This beautiful Himalayan lake Pangong Tso (Tibetan for "high grassland lake") is situated at a height of about 14,270 ft and is 134 km long. It extends from India to China and around one-third of the lake lies in China. The lake is 5 km wide at its broadest point.

Pangong is one of the largest brackish water lakes of Asia

The fascinating fact about Pangong Lake is that it has saline water and even then the water freezes. There is no aquatic life but some migratory birds can be spotted. It was a visual delight to watch the gulls and ducks play over the beautiful lake

Brown headed Gulls at Pangong

The first place we crossed was the army camp at Lukung. From here till Spangmik, the road was merely stone filled dirt track. Spangmik is the last village till where foreigners can go with an inner line permit.

Spending night with the locals at the height of 14,270 ft. ...
The village has merely 5-6 houses of which 2 provide the facility of home-stay. We chose to stay in one of them rather than at the camps nearby; One, because in a remote place like this I want to contribute to the economy of the place and second, I love to experience the local life and interact with locals.

Me with my hosts in the neatly organised kitchen of our home-stay at Spagmik

The evening was spent in the kitchen-cum-common room chatting and having endless cups of tea. There was a biker who had come from Bangalore and was exploring Himalayas from past one month on his bike. I still remember his adventure tales that inspired me to do Leh-Khardung La on bike.
The hot dal-chawal and ladakhi rotis with vegetables tasted heavenly delicious in the chilling cold of Ladakh. We were provided with a cozy room with wooden flooring covered with carpets and wooden roof. The bedding was warm and comfortable. And the hospitality of the hosts made it even better.

The home-stay at village Spagmik

One can also stay in the camps on the shores of the lake. The camps are made of canvas and the floors are covered with jute carpet to provide warmth. Each camp has an attached bathroom with cold running water. Thick blankets and a hot water bag is provided for warmth.
On the way back we visited Shay and Thiksey monasteries.

This was undoubtedly one of my best journeys so far. Have already visited Pangong thrice and every time it seems more beautiful.


P.S.- Pictures are clicked while on a road trip Himalayan Voyage with INDIAN TERRAINS in June 2012 and July 2014

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A Perfect Weekend Getaway Just A Few Hours Drive From Delhi!

Tip tap tip tap... as the drops of rain fall on the ground, on the leaves and on the slate roofs, we sit in a cozy balcony of our cottage sipping hot tea. We are surrounded by forest all around with a few village houses in the vicinity. Just a few moments before the golden rays of setting sun  had engulfed the whole valley creating dramatic patterns on the sky together with clouds.

Just 8 hrs drive from the capital city takes you to this tiny village Nathuakhan. It is a quiet place located at an altitude of 1940mt in Kumaon range of the central Himalayas. Just a kilometer before the market of Nathuakhan is a beautiful cottage that we had booked to spend a weekend in the lap of nature.

The drive from Delhi was enjoyable. We got to experience it all... sunny sky, clouds, rain, fog and again sun. We had no idea what the place will be like, all places look good online in pictures. But we were sure we will have good experience the moment we entered the place. There was warmth in everything. Ever-smiling staff to take care of every little thing; tastefully done interiors, nick-nacks placed in the outdoors; the cozy sitting areas inside and outside the cottage... that's exactly what we needed for a relaxing holiday away from the city.

A nice cup of tea in the lap of nature after 8 hrs long drive refreshed us

It's a paradise for bird watchers

Evening was spent exploring the surroundings. Small meandering path through fruit trees took us to the village. A small village with just a few houses with farms and the livestock. Just a kilometer away from the cottage was the local market.
A short drive little further took us to Sitla from where we got a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Himalayan ranges - Trisul, Nandadevi and Panchachuli. There's a shop here where you can buy locally made stuff that includes spreads, jams, juices, handicrafts etc.

Once back to our nest, we picked our corners to just relax and soak in the serenity of the place. The music from the wind chyme was the only sound we could hear. After a refreshing cup of tea, we all got together and enjoyed chatting in a cozy balcony lit by candle lamps creating a mystic effect.

We picked our corners to relax and soak in the serenity of the place

Had sumptuous dinner cooked and served with lots of care and love.

The living area became our favorite place. The wide range of books and music collection, the wooden interior, cozy couches made it a place you would want to spend days relaxing at. Just a night was not at all sufficient.

The living area 

I woke up to chirping of a bird on the window sill of the attic I stayed at. It was very early in the morning. The same lazy me who would not get up early morning for anything in the city, was up and straight at 5.30 am with no intentions to go back to bed again. Sitting in the small sit-out area of the attic sipping my morning tea, I could see the forest slowly getting lit and the life getting started in the village. The deep breaths of cool fresh air refreshed my body and soul. I was rejuvenated to take on the stress of busy city life again.

Bid goodbye to the team with a promise to be back again

It was a perfect getaway - "A home away from home" in a true sense!

----THE GUIDE----

HOW TO REACH:

On Road: New Delhi to Nathuakhan: 340 kms via Moradabad, Rampur, Rudrapur, Haldwani, Kathgodam, Bhowali, Malla Ramgarh, Talla Ramgarh. The journey takes approximately 8 hours. Parking lot available.
Other distances from Nathuakhan: Nainital - 40 km, Bhowali - 30 km, Mukteshwar - 14 km

By Train:

Ranikhet Express runs daily; Departure from Old Delhi at 10:40 PM, Arrival at Kathgodam at 5:20AM.

 Indian Railway Information available here

Khatgodam AC Express runs on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday; Departure from Delhi Anand Vihar at 6:00 AM, Arrival at Kathgodam at 11:55 AM. Indian Railway Information available here
Take a taxi from Kathgodam to Nathuakhan, a hill journey of 60 km.

The Village Stay - Home away from home

THE STAY

The cottage has 5 rooms and an attic.

The Attic: Perfect for a group of 4-5 friends. The attic has an attached bath.


FOOD

Meals are scrumptious and home-cooked. Local produce sourced from home garden or the neighboring farms is used.
Breakfast is a hearty affair, complete with eggs, porridge, flakes, bread, jams and spreads, and even poha or idlis or upma or parathas.
Lunch is usually an Indian vegetarian spread. Kumaoni/ Gujrati/ Bengali etc. The spread consists of a daal, vegetables, yogurt, salad, rice & chapati/ puri.

Indian, Continental, Mediterranean or Chinese cuisine is served as per choice in dinner. It starts with soup, main and side dishes and dessert. Bar-Be-Que too can be arranged. Non-veg is served for dinner for those who prefer it.

You can book your stay in this cottage at Homestays of India

If you also know places like these, do share in comment section. Would love to know :)

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Kinnaur in Pictures

Majestic snow-clad mountains, gorgeous green valleys, meandering rivers, small villages with rich culture, orchards and vineyards… that’s what define Kinnaur - one of the most beautiful valleys of Himachal Pradesh. Located in the Northeast of Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur valley is around 235 Kms from capital city Shimla.  There are three high mountains ranges - Zanskar, Greater Himalayas and Dhauladhar in the district enclosing valleys of Sutlej, Spiti, Baspa and their tributaries.

The trail that can be followed to explore Kinnaur is Delhi – Shimla – Rampur - Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa and minimum 6 - 7 days would be required to explore the area.

On the way from Simla to Sangla via Rampur. The road cut on the rocky hills is an engineering feat

Himalayan Griffon on the way to Sangla

SANGLA 

This is a beautiful valley located in the greater Himalayan range at an altitude of around of 2,696 Mtrs (8,900 ft). It is surrounded by forested slopes and the Baspa River flows into it. The area is rich in apple orchards, apricot, Wall-nut and Cedar trees.
There are many options to stay including budget hotels and camps.

Sangla Valley on the banks of River Baspa

A sweet lady from village Karchham in Sangla Valley

Fields of the pink coloured ogla, a small flower seed grown specifically in the Baspa Valley add to its beauty

CHITKUL

Chitkul, small village with population not more than 500 is situated at an altitude of 3,450 Mtrs (11,320 ft) on the foot hills at the bank of River Baspa. It is the last inhabited village in Sangla Valley on the old Hindustan Tibet road.

Chitkul produces one of best quality potatoes and peas in India 

Traditional wooden house in Chitkul, the last Indian village on Kinnaur side with an elevation of 3,450 m (11,320 ft)

The Kingyupa Temple, Chitkul

Snow covered peaks at early morning as seen from Chitkul

KALPA

Kalpa is a small town in the Sutlej river valley located at an elevation of 2,960 m (9,710 ft) and is famous for its apple orchards. The local inhabitants follow a mix of Hinduism and Buddhism, and many temples are dedicated to both Hindu and Buddhist gods and goddesses. We get a breathtakingly beautiful view of Kinner Kailash peak from here.

Kalpa is a small town  in Sutlej river valley, Kinnaur

At the monasteray in Kalpa. Kalpa is a good mix of Hindu and Buddhist culture

Beautiful wooden entry gate of a temple in Kalpa

In case you want to explore it with professionals check the plan here

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Explore Sikkim

SIKKIM is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful destinations of INDIA. With high mountain ranges and massive glaciers, vivacious rivers and placid lakes, alpine meadows and dense forests; with as many as 5000 flowering plants, 500 orchids, 500 species of birds and 650 species of butterflies; with rich culture and colourful traditions... this tiny little state has lots to offer. The visitor to Sikkim will be spoiled for choice with each of the four districts offering unique travel opportunities. There's something for every type of traveller. Some remote villages in west and north will give you a sneak peek into Sikkimese culture, the wildlife sanctuaries here will give you a glimpse into the exotic Himalayan wildlife, if you are the road tripper explore old silk route in east Sikkim to get picture-postcard landscapes and some great hikes in the mountains of north and west will give you a superb mountain escape. The best time to visit Sikkim is from November to May.

When I was planning my trip to Sikkim I realised the need for such post where the information on the state is at one place, hence this post. I am putting down some information (collected from various sources) here that will help you decide what to chose as per your interest and plan your vacation to Sikkim.

WEST DISTRICT:

Visit west Sikkim for history and religion. This is where the first Chogyal of Sikkim was consecrated at Yuksum in 1642 and some of the holiest and most important monasteries of Sikkim were established, including Dubdi and Sanga Choling. Pemayangtse Monastery one of the oldest monasteries of the State and houses priceless thankas, icons, Buddhist texts, paintings and frescos. It was built in the 18th century. Originally established by Lhatsun Chempo, one of the revered Lamas to have performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal (Religious Monarch) of Sikkim. 

About 3kms from Pelling and few minutes walk further down from Pemayangtse Monastery are the Rabdentse ruins. Rabdentse is the second capital of the erstwhile Kingdom of Sikkim after Yuksom and till the year 1814 AD, the Kings of Sikkim had ruled the State from this place. 

West Sikkim has beautiful terrain with lakes and waterfalls in abundance and has some great trekking routes. Yuksom situated amidst pristine hills is the base camp for Dzongi trek. It is also the point from where one can visit the Kanchendzonga National Park.
An easy four kilometers trek from from Hilley takes one up to the Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary which is in bloom from March to April. One can also trek from Soreng and Dentam.
Khecheopalri Lake also known as the wishing lake is surrounded by forest and is believed that birds do not permit even a single leaf to float on the lake.

Khecheopalri Lake

Stay Options:
If you want to experience the living in the lap of nature with basic facilities stay at homestays in Hee burmoik, Khechiopalri or Dentam. And if you like staying at touristy location with all facilities stay at Pelling.

EAST DISTRICT:

Apart from the beautiful capital city of Gangtok, east Sikkim offers a lot more. If you are an adventurous soul and want to explore the unexplored, plan a road trip on the old Silk Route through Aritar, Zuluk, Thambi, Gnathang and to Nathula. It will take you through some breathtakingly beautiful landscapes and stunning views of Kanchenjunga range. Beautiful zig zag roads, amazing view of Kanchenjunga throughout, varied flora and fauna and lovely locals... all this makes the drive one of the most beautiful drives of India. You will cross through beautiful lakes like Kupup and Memenchu and waterfalls like Que Khola on the route.

Aritar is blessed with Lush green forests, sweeping hills of paddy fields and placid lake and monastery hidden inside deep forest that makes it a perfect destination for nature lovers.
The view of Kanchenjunga and Zuluk loops (32 hairpin bends) from Thambi view point is amazingly beautiful.
Gnathang is a beautiful small village nestled in a valley and has decent stay options.
Apart from this, in east you can also visit the beautiful Tsomgo Lake, the historically important Nathula pass, as well as many monasteries and temples. 

Zuluk Loops

Stay Options:

Homestays and guest houses in Zuluk, Aritar or Gnathang offer beautiful views and a feel of staying in a Himalayan village with touch of local culture. In Nathang temperature goes down to sub zero and water freezes when you wake up. So be prepared for that.
If you are looking for luxurious comfort stay in hotels at Gangtok.

Explore the silk route in east sikkim with professionals.

SOUTH DISTRICT:

South Sikkim, the smallest district of Sikkim is a fairy tale land with picturesque villages and high hills. It is a good destination for a short treks and village excursions.

Namchi, 80 kilometers from Gangtok offers a panoramic view of snow capped mountains. The head quarter of South Sikkim is a fast developing tourist destination. Namchi is famous for the flower festival which usually held in the month of February.

Ravangla is an ideal place for short treks. The trek to Meanam – a town situated on the ridge between the Meanam and Tendong hills, from Ravangla takes about 4 hours and from Maenam hill to Borong village. 

Borong is a small typical Sikkim Village with a beautiful set up. There is a hot spring which is known as Borong Tisa Chu.
Temi Tea Garden the only tea garden in Sikkim produces one of best quality tea in the international market. The garden is spread over a gentle slope of hills from Tendong and offers an extra ordinary view of surrounding villages.
Sikip, located on the banks of river Rangeet is an excellent fishing spot and river campsite.
Phur-cha-chu or the Hot Spring is an ideal for bird watching and butterflies.
Ralang Monastary, Sinon Monastery, Kewzing monastery are also places to visit in South Sikkim.

A typical village house

Stay options
Yangang, Tinkitam, Kewzing, Barfung & Bakhim are small villages with home stay options. You can also opt to stay at Namchi.

NORTH DISTRICT:

Visit North Sikkim for its heavenly beauty.  Sikkim tourism is emerging fast and North Sikkim is a must visit.  The breathtaking view of Mount Kanchendzonga, the fragrance of variety of flowers, the quietness of sparkling lakes and the gurgling of rivers make North Sikkim a destination that no nature lover should miss. Perhaps the most picturesque of all the districts, Mangan District Headquarter of North District is 67 kms from Gangtok. A three day music festival is held at Mangan in December every year. The roads are steep and winding so be prepared for a hectic trip. But all the effort surely will be worth it.

Chungthang, 95 kms from Gangtok, is situated on the confluence of the river Lachen Chu and Lachung Chu and it is the starting point of the river Tista. The valley is believed to have been blessed by guru Rimpoche and one can visit the Holy Guru Ihedu to see the foot and palm left behind by the patron saint. The place is rich in bio-diversity with a wide variety of plants, wild life & orchids.  Just 23kms and 29 kms away from Chungthang there another two important valleys Lachung and Lachen.

Yumthang, 140kms from Gangtok is at an elevation of 11800 feet. It alone is enough to satiate the most demanding, with its panoramic valley of Flowers. The valley has Shingbha Rhododendron Sanstuary 24 verities of rhododendrons. There is a hot spring and just 24 kms away Katao offers a panoramic view of snow capped peaks. A must-see here are the Yumthang "Tsa-Chu" - hot springs and the vibrant Sikkimese tribal culture and customs.  

Singhik has a number of interesting short nature trails for one to three days along the higher ridges of the surrounding hills.
Gurudongmar Lake is a enthralling lake of North Sikkim at an altitude of 17,150 ft. and surrounded by snow capped peaks
Singhik, Phodong Monartery, Phensong Monastery, Kabi Longstok, Mangan etc.are few other places to visit from Lachen similarly Katao, Yumeysomdong is close to Lachung. 

North Sikkim is known for its rhododendron forest and the snowfall. There are few trek routes also to Green Lake.

Lachen

Pic downloaded from net

Stay Options

One can stay at Lachung and Lachen. Expect basic homestays with warm hospitality and beautiful locations.

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Khecheopalri Village and the lake in West Sikkim

Walking up the dense forest at midnight with 3 sweet local guys and 2 friends from Delhi, I had no idea what to expect. I could see nothing except the winding path through thick forest; just that much that was shown by the torch and a dog crossing my path time and again who accompanied us on the whole trek. Dark night, twinkling stars, deep forest, fireflies and the only sound I could hear was of our footsteps... quite mysterious it was!

After a 3km uphill trek, it was a delight to reach the home-stay.  It was much more cozy, beautiful, well constructed and well managed than I expected. Hot meal waiting for us at midnight was cherry on the cake.

Temi Tea

I opened my eyes to a completely different world with the view of dense forest and a lake from the window of my room. It was a lovely morning. I went out to veranda and sat there enjoying the sounds and smell of the forest when a little girl came with a huge cup of famous temi tea. It was very refreshing. Along with us there were 2 more guests in the homestay - a lady from San Francisco who was staying here from a month and a lady from Italy who had also come last night much before we arrived. After taking some tips of what all to explore around from the SF lady, I went out to explore.

I have something for villages and local people, so rather than going to the lake or the caves I decided to go explore the village first. Our homestay was around a kilometer's walk from the village. Walking through a well paved way with pea plantation on the sides followed by a narrow path through cardamom plantations took me to the village. Huts were mostly self made with bamboo, wood and straw with lots of potted plants mainly flowers in front. This is the place that you thought existed only in your dreams.

A simple village house with potted flowers which is common in every house here

Self made lovely little hut... Every hut looks different here.

People seemed busy in their day to day chores. I could hardly see anyone. After some roaming around I met were two sweet young girls playing on a hammock and a young energetic guy playing guitar. When I stared talking to him I was surprised to know he knew that I came last night with 2 other friends and that we reached very late at night. He was genuinely interested to know if the climb was ok and we did not get very tired. It's a small village and everyone seem to know each other. The guys accompanying us in the night were related to him.

Simple yet talented people in romote yet well connected village

Currency pasted on a wall by
travellers from different countries 

Anyway after a quick introduction he took me to show around his place. I was amazed to see it. One wall had coins from all over the world stuck to it, another wall had pics of him and his family with foreigners, a world map, lots of travel guide books and hand made wind chimes hanging above the dining table. The pictures he told were taken by his guests and sent to him later by post, the wind chimes were also made by the guests and were presented to him as the parting gift. He insisted I check out his kitchen too.
It was a small but very well organised modern kitchen and inside there was a traditional clay stove as well. little more talk and I got to know this is his homestay where he mostly get backpackers from all over the world. He is running it from past 15 years. And its mainly through the his traveller guests that he learns about the world.

Well organised Sikkimese kitchen

I visited the village again in the evening and went till the monastery. On my way back heard guitar playing in a room. went inside to seee some local youngsters playing guitar and singing. they were happy to have a guest joining in. There was no hesitation whatsoever.

Ex service-man retired from Indian army

Another interesting character I met was an old man sitting by the window smiling at every passerby. He was in army and was posted at Dehradun before his retirement. Now he spends all his time in this small village with his family.

Just in a day I got so attached to the people and the place, I surely would want to come back here for atleast a week.


The next day was spent exploring the lake and caves. We had to down trek to the road to reach the lake. The lake is sacred for both Buddhists and Hindus and is believed to be a wish fulfilling lake. The local name for the lake is Sho Dzo Sho, which means "Oh Lady, Sit Here". The popularly known name of the lake is Khecheopalri Lake as its nestled in the midst of the Khechoedpaldri hill, which is also considered as a sacred hill. 

 According to Buddhist belief the lake is the emanation of goddess Tara blessed by Guru Rempoche. Local folk tales say the lake got migrated from elsewhere and stayed in the valley which some of the then villagers saw it, therefore, they named the lake Chojoo “The lake that stayed” The miraculous part of the lake is that surface of the lake is clean in spite of it being surrounded by the thick forest. Leaves do fall on it sometimes but the birds fly in and instantly pick them away. 

On the other side in about one hour walk from the lake there is a holy cave.

Khecheopalri Lake

---------------------------------------------------THE GUIDE------------------------------------------------------

Best time to visit: The best months to visit are from September to May.

How to reach: The lake is in West Sikkim and is147 kilometres from Gangtok  and 32 kilometres from Pelling town. You can hire a cab from Pelling to reach the lake. There are no local buses but there are some shared jeeps that ply from Pelling and Geyzing once or twice a day.  There is a walking track too from Pelling to this lake, which takes around 5 hours. 

Where to stay: There are some basic guest houses nearby lake. If you want to stay in the village and experience local life trek up to the village (30 - 40 min trek) and look for homestays. There are some good ones to spend a few days in the lap of nature ranging from 800-1400pp /day including meals

Get in touch with ChaloLetsGo for customised trips if you want to explore Sikkim.

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Zuluk Loops - One of the best roads to drive on in India

In the remotest corner of the Himalayas, the great ancient explorers had set up this trade route called silk route that connected India to Tibet and later other cities also became part of it, eventually making it the largest network of trading. This route re-shaped the way people did trade and exchanged cultural ideas. This route passed through Lhasa, Nathu La and Jelep La Pass and finally reached the port of Tamralipta (present Tamluk in West Bengal) from where it took to the sea and reached far east.
Located on this route in lower Himalayas of East Sikkim is a beautiful small village Zuluk. It was once a transit point to the historic Silk Road from Tibet to India. There is also an Indian Army base at Zuluk, which has been used as a transit camp for the army movement to the Chinese border hence permit is required to visit Zuluk and beyond which can be obtained from Rongli (between 10am -2pm). You can also sign up for the Sikkim trip on this route with ChaloLetsGo

Beautiful zig zag roads, amazing view of Kanchenjunga throuhout, varied flora and fauna and lovely locals... all this makes the drive from Zuluk to Thambi one of the most beautiful drives of India.

The zig-zag road - The road through Zuluk has almost 32 hairpin turns and is no less than a wonder. Driving on this road is any road-tripper's dream. Mt Kanchandjunga will follow you throughout the drive. The landscape views are truly breathtaking especially during the sunset.

Varied flora and fauna: Zuluk has high diversity of Himalayan flora and fauna. The place shelters variety of birds like Monal Pheasant, Blood Pheasant, Khaleez Pheasant, Snow Pheasant and others. You may also catch a glimpse of Himalayan Weasel, Red Panda, wild dog and deer in the high hills.

Amazing view of Kanchenjunga: 14 kms away from Zuluk is Thambi View Point that offers a panoramic view of the entire Mt. Kanchenjungha range. Watching the sunrise over Mt. Kanchenjunga and its allied peaks from Thambi View Point at 11,200 feet is a surreal experience. The golden rays of rising sun kiss the snow clad peak of Kanchenjunga, which slowly turns crimson and then golden and finally silver. The spectacle is truly breathtaking.

Zuluk is accessible throughout the year. During winter Zuluk faces high snow fall and freezing temperatures and in summers are wet and foggy here. During summer Zuluk and its surrounding hills remain covered with different kind of blooming rhododendron flowers.

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