Chandrashila - Where the Magic Starts

I woke up to a knock at the door of my room from a fellow traveler Lalima at 4.30AM. Excited she was to announce that the sky is clear. We took no time to get up and start trekking towards Chandrashila. It was biting cold sub zero temperature. The hands, nose, cheeks and lips were all red with cold and the heart was thumping not sure from the rush of blood due to trekking or from the anticipation of what awaits us.

It was a steep climb of around a kilometer with no specific path to follow. Cold and darkness made it even more tough. But as they say, "no pain no gain". Just when our stamina was shaking after around two-third of the climb, we took a turn and got a glimpse of what awaits us. The sky was deep orange and there were layers of mountain ranges visible. There was no looking back after that. Every second was precious. Our speed doubled and excitement increased many fold.  

 I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades 

We were on the top point in less than half an hour. I couldn't believe what I saw. I was surrounded by layers and layers of mountain ranges all around placed beautifully in different shades. In front were snow covered Himalayan peaks like Nanda devi, Chaukhamba and Trisul standing tall acknowledging our efforts.

The sky was all red, ready to welcome the Sun. And the hills were ready to embrace the day with open arms. Slowly the rays of the sun started appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak, lighting it and creating a golden outline... It looked like some magic was about to happen. The divine ball of fire, the source of every possible energy, the core of our creation appeared slowly from behind Nanda Devi leaving us spellbound. The love of God was all over in the form of fresh warm golden rays that lit the whole valley and the mountains.

The sun was up in its full glory in no time. It was the sign of a new beginning!  

P.S. - I was so engrossed in the magic happening in front of me that I forgot to take pictures. And I am glad I did, it is now all engraved so well in my memory disk. Below are the 2 mobile pictures I could manage while in the trance...

The rays of the sun appearing from behind the Nanda devi peak creating the golden magic  

Chaukhamba lit by the morning rays of Sun

Connect with me on Instagram and Facebook for more responsible travel adventures.

Also Read:

The Calm in the Chaos - VARANASI
In the Shadows of Dhauladhars - KANGRA VALLEY
The Thar Experience

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Tungnath - Nature's Playground

I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—sky, clouds, mountains, trees. I thought, "This is what it is to be happy"

Standing on a cliff at an altitude of 3,680 m (12,073 ft), this is exactly what my feeling was. All the tiredness of 3hrs trek disappeared immediately. All I could feel was the happiness... happiness of being there at that moment. Nothing else mattered, how I reached, what I have come for, what I have left behind... all this was meaningless. All that mattered was I WAS THERE, I was there to witness the magnificent beauty of nature!

HAPPINESS

The sight of deep valley spread below, the onrush of cool breeze from those lands faraway, the misty smell and the sound of silence up there.. overwhelmed me.

Himalayan griffon chasing their prey 

Tea shop owner on the way to Tungnath

An easy trek of around 4kms on a well paved path through oak and rhododendron forest brought me to this heaven called Tungnath, the highest of the panchkedars. On the way were a few tea shops that were such a respite for the trekkers. It was not just the refreshing tea or the rhododendron juice but also the sweet simple smile and the innocence of these pahadi people that refreshed us from time to time.

Being there on the top of the hill witnessing the nature unfolding its marvels is one the best experiences of my life. When we reached, it was sunny, clouds playing hide and seek with the sun. We lied down on the cliffs basking. The sun rays never felt so soothing in the city. After a few hours as the time of sunset approached, the sky turned into a canvas and the evening colors started spreading all over, making beautiful painting like patterns. The dark clouds covered the sun and the rays trickled through, lighting the valley golden while we could see the sky above clouds still untouched by the golden hues. Far away was one lonely cloud, so blue, wandering alone... as if looking for a partner to color it red. And in no time others realized and merged with it turning it pink. Slowly the evening colors started spreading all over... golden, orange, pink, purple... can't say when the colors changed and darkness took over the whole valley and the sky.  We were mesmerized by this whole play.

Witnessing the divine sunset from the cliffs at Tungnath

Night was no less dramatic. We found ourselves standing in the middle of clouds when suddenly a breeze came and took away all the clouds exposing the star studded sky. We could now clearly see the twinkling stars big and small, in clusters and alone, bright and light... all together making the sky look amazingly gorgeous. While we were lost in this beautiful vista, another cloud came hovering over from nowhere covering it all again... As if saying that's all for the day folks. Good Night..!

I woke up to a knock at the door of my room from a fellow traveler Lalima at 4.30AM. Excited she was to announce that the sky is clear. We took no time to get up and start trekking towards the Chandrashila. It was biting cold sub zero temperature. The hands, nose, cheeks and lips were red with cold and the heart was thumping not sure from the rush of blood due to trekking or from the anticipation of what awaits us...!

To be continued... 

*This trip was done with ChaloLetsGo travel group

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Explore Sikkim

SIKKIM is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful destinations of INDIA. With high mountain ranges and massive glaciers, vivacious rivers and placid lakes, alpine meadows and dense forests; with as many as 5000 flowering plants, 500 orchids, 500 species of birds and 650 species of butterflies; with rich culture and colourful traditions... this tiny little state has lots to offer. The visitor to Sikkim will be spoiled for choice with each of the four districts offering unique travel opportunities. There's something for every type of traveller. Some remote villages in west and north will give you a sneak peek into Sikkimese culture, the wildlife sanctuaries here will give you a glimpse into the exotic Himalayan wildlife, if you are the road tripper explore old silk route in east Sikkim to get picture-postcard landscapes and some great hikes in the mountains of north and west will give you a superb mountain escape. The best time to visit Sikkim is from November to May.

When I was planning my trip to Sikkim I realised the need for such post where the information on the state is at one place, hence this post. I am putting down some information (collected from various sources) here that will help you decide what to chose as per your interest and plan your vacation to Sikkim.

WEST DISTRICT:

Visit west Sikkim for history and religion. This is where the first Chogyal of Sikkim was consecrated at Yuksum in 1642 and some of the holiest and most important monasteries of Sikkim were established, including Dubdi and Sanga Choling. Pemayangtse Monastery one of the oldest monasteries of the State and houses priceless thankas, icons, Buddhist texts, paintings and frescos. It was built in the 18th century. Originally established by Lhatsun Chempo, one of the revered Lamas to have performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal (Religious Monarch) of Sikkim. 

About 3kms from Pelling and few minutes walk further down from Pemayangtse Monastery are the Rabdentse ruins. Rabdentse is the second capital of the erstwhile Kingdom of Sikkim after Yuksom and till the year 1814 AD, the Kings of Sikkim had ruled the State from this place. 

West Sikkim has beautiful terrain with lakes and waterfalls in abundance and has some great trekking routes. Yuksom situated amidst pristine hills is the base camp for Dzongi trek. It is also the point from where one can visit the Kanchendzonga National Park.
An easy four kilometers trek from from Hilley takes one up to the Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary which is in bloom from March to April. One can also trek from Soreng and Dentam.
Khecheopalri Lake also known as the wishing lake is surrounded by forest and is believed that birds do not permit even a single leaf to float on the lake.

Khecheopalri Lake

Stay Options:
If you want to experience the living in the lap of nature with basic facilities stay at homestays in Hee burmoik, Khechiopalri or Dentam. And if you like staying at touristy location with all facilities stay at Pelling.

EAST DISTRICT:

Apart from the beautiful capital city of Gangtok, east Sikkim offers a lot more. If you are an adventurous soul and want to explore the unexplored, plan a road trip on the old Silk Route through Aritar, Zuluk, Thambi, Gnathang and to Nathula. It will take you through some breathtakingly beautiful landscapes and stunning views of Kanchenjunga range. Beautiful zig zag roads, amazing view of Kanchenjunga throughout, varied flora and fauna and lovely locals... all this makes the drive one of the most beautiful drives of India. You will cross through beautiful lakes like Kupup and Memenchu and waterfalls like Que Khola on the route.

Aritar is blessed with Lush green forests, sweeping hills of paddy fields and placid lake and monastery hidden inside deep forest that makes it a perfect destination for nature lovers.
The view of Kanchenjunga and Zuluk loops (32 hairpin bends) from Thambi view point is amazingly beautiful.
Gnathang is a beautiful small village nestled in a valley and has decent stay options.
Apart from this, in east you can also visit the beautiful Tsomgo Lake, the historically important Nathula pass, as well as many monasteries and temples. 

Zuluk Loops

Stay Options:

Homestays and guest houses in Zuluk, Aritar or Gnathang offer beautiful views and a feel of staying in a Himalayan village with touch of local culture. In Nathang temperature goes down to sub zero and water freezes when you wake up. So be prepared for that.
If you are looking for luxurious comfort stay in hotels at Gangtok.

Explore the silk route in east sikkim with professionals.

SOUTH DISTRICT:

South Sikkim, the smallest district of Sikkim is a fairy tale land with picturesque villages and high hills. It is a good destination for a short treks and village excursions.

Namchi, 80 kilometers from Gangtok offers a panoramic view of snow capped mountains. The head quarter of South Sikkim is a fast developing tourist destination. Namchi is famous for the flower festival which usually held in the month of February.

Ravangla is an ideal place for short treks. The trek to Meanam – a town situated on the ridge between the Meanam and Tendong hills, from Ravangla takes about 4 hours and from Maenam hill to Borong village. 

Borong is a small typical Sikkim Village with a beautiful set up. There is a hot spring which is known as Borong Tisa Chu.
Temi Tea Garden the only tea garden in Sikkim produces one of best quality tea in the international market. The garden is spread over a gentle slope of hills from Tendong and offers an extra ordinary view of surrounding villages.
Sikip, located on the banks of river Rangeet is an excellent fishing spot and river campsite.
Phur-cha-chu or the Hot Spring is an ideal for bird watching and butterflies.
Ralang Monastary, Sinon Monastery, Kewzing monastery are also places to visit in South Sikkim.

A typical village house

Stay options
Yangang, Tinkitam, Kewzing, Barfung & Bakhim are small villages with home stay options. You can also opt to stay at Namchi.

NORTH DISTRICT:

Visit North Sikkim for its heavenly beauty.  Sikkim tourism is emerging fast and North Sikkim is a must visit.  The breathtaking view of Mount Kanchendzonga, the fragrance of variety of flowers, the quietness of sparkling lakes and the gurgling of rivers make North Sikkim a destination that no nature lover should miss. Perhaps the most picturesque of all the districts, Mangan District Headquarter of North District is 67 kms from Gangtok. A three day music festival is held at Mangan in December every year. The roads are steep and winding so be prepared for a hectic trip. But all the effort surely will be worth it.

Chungthang, 95 kms from Gangtok, is situated on the confluence of the river Lachen Chu and Lachung Chu and it is the starting point of the river Tista. The valley is believed to have been blessed by guru Rimpoche and one can visit the Holy Guru Ihedu to see the foot and palm left behind by the patron saint. The place is rich in bio-diversity with a wide variety of plants, wild life & orchids.  Just 23kms and 29 kms away from Chungthang there another two important valleys Lachung and Lachen.

Yumthang, 140kms from Gangtok is at an elevation of 11800 feet. It alone is enough to satiate the most demanding, with its panoramic valley of Flowers. The valley has Shingbha Rhododendron Sanstuary 24 verities of rhododendrons. There is a hot spring and just 24 kms away Katao offers a panoramic view of snow capped peaks. A must-see here are the Yumthang "Tsa-Chu" - hot springs and the vibrant Sikkimese tribal culture and customs.  

Singhik has a number of interesting short nature trails for one to three days along the higher ridges of the surrounding hills.
Gurudongmar Lake is a enthralling lake of North Sikkim at an altitude of 17,150 ft. and surrounded by snow capped peaks
Singhik, Phodong Monartery, Phensong Monastery, Kabi Longstok, Mangan etc.are few other places to visit from Lachen similarly Katao, Yumeysomdong is close to Lachung. 

North Sikkim is known for its rhododendron forest and the snowfall. There are few trek routes also to Green Lake.

Lachen

Pic downloaded from net

Stay Options

One can stay at Lachung and Lachen. Expect basic homestays with warm hospitality and beautiful locations.

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Khecheopalri Village and the lake in West Sikkim

Walking up the dense forest at midnight with 3 sweet local guys and 2 friends from Delhi, I had no idea what to expect. I could see nothing except the winding path through thick forest; just that much that was shown by the torch and a dog crossing my path time and again who accompanied us on the whole trek. Dark night, twinkling stars, deep forest, fireflies and the only sound I could hear was of our footsteps... quite mysterious it was!

After a 3km uphill trek, it was a delight to reach the home-stay.  It was much more cozy, beautiful, well constructed and well managed than I expected. Hot meal waiting for us at midnight was cherry on the cake.

Temi Tea

I opened my eyes to a completely different world with the view of dense forest and a lake from the window of my room. It was a lovely morning. I went out to veranda and sat there enjoying the sounds and smell of the forest when a little girl came with a huge cup of famous temi tea. It was very refreshing. Along with us there were 2 more guests in the homestay - a lady from San Francisco who was staying here from a month and a lady from Italy who had also come last night much before we arrived. After taking some tips of what all to explore around from the SF lady, I went out to explore.

I have something for villages and local people, so rather than going to the lake or the caves I decided to go explore the village first. Our homestay was around a kilometer's walk from the village. Walking through a well paved way with pea plantation on the sides followed by a narrow path through cardamom plantations took me to the village. Huts were mostly self made with bamboo, wood and straw with lots of potted plants mainly flowers in front. This is the place that you thought existed only in your dreams.

A simple village house with potted flowers which is common in every house here

Self made lovely little hut... Every hut looks different here.

People seemed busy in their day to day chores. I could hardly see anyone. After some roaming around I met were two sweet young girls playing on a hammock and a young energetic guy playing guitar. When I stared talking to him I was surprised to know he knew that I came last night with 2 other friends and that we reached very late at night. He was genuinely interested to know if the climb was ok and we did not get very tired. It's a small village and everyone seem to know each other. The guys accompanying us in the night were related to him.

Simple yet talented people in romote yet well connected village

Currency pasted on a wall by
travellers from different countries 

Anyway after a quick introduction he took me to show around his place. I was amazed to see it. One wall had coins from all over the world stuck to it, another wall had pics of him and his family with foreigners, a world map, lots of travel guide books and hand made wind chimes hanging above the dining table. The pictures he told were taken by his guests and sent to him later by post, the wind chimes were also made by the guests and were presented to him as the parting gift. He insisted I check out his kitchen too.
It was a small but very well organised modern kitchen and inside there was a traditional clay stove as well. little more talk and I got to know this is his homestay where he mostly get backpackers from all over the world. He is running it from past 15 years. And its mainly through the his traveller guests that he learns about the world.

Well organised Sikkimese kitchen

I visited the village again in the evening and went till the monastery. On my way back heard guitar playing in a room. went inside to seee some local youngsters playing guitar and singing. they were happy to have a guest joining in. There was no hesitation whatsoever.

Ex service-man retired from Indian army

Another interesting character I met was an old man sitting by the window smiling at every passerby. He was in army and was posted at Dehradun before his retirement. Now he spends all his time in this small village with his family.

Just in a day I got so attached to the people and the place, I surely would want to come back here for atleast a week.


The next day was spent exploring the lake and caves. We had to down trek to the road to reach the lake. The lake is sacred for both Buddhists and Hindus and is believed to be a wish fulfilling lake. The local name for the lake is Sho Dzo Sho, which means "Oh Lady, Sit Here". The popularly known name of the lake is Khecheopalri Lake as its nestled in the midst of the Khechoedpaldri hill, which is also considered as a sacred hill. 

 According to Buddhist belief the lake is the emanation of goddess Tara blessed by Guru Rempoche. Local folk tales say the lake got migrated from elsewhere and stayed in the valley which some of the then villagers saw it, therefore, they named the lake Chojoo “The lake that stayed” The miraculous part of the lake is that surface of the lake is clean in spite of it being surrounded by the thick forest. Leaves do fall on it sometimes but the birds fly in and instantly pick them away. 

On the other side in about one hour walk from the lake there is a holy cave.

Khecheopalri Lake

---------------------------------------------------THE GUIDE------------------------------------------------------

Best time to visit: The best months to visit are from September to May.

How to reach: The lake is in West Sikkim and is147 kilometres from Gangtok  and 32 kilometres from Pelling town. You can hire a cab from Pelling to reach the lake. There are no local buses but there are some shared jeeps that ply from Pelling and Geyzing once or twice a day.  There is a walking track too from Pelling to this lake, which takes around 5 hours. 

Where to stay: There are some basic guest houses nearby lake. If you want to stay in the village and experience local life trek up to the village (30 - 40 min trek) and look for homestays. There are some good ones to spend a few days in the lap of nature ranging from 800-1400pp /day including meals

Get in touch with ChaloLetsGo for customised trips if you want to explore Sikkim.

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Zuluk Loops - One of the best roads to drive on in India

In the remotest corner of the Himalayas, the great ancient explorers had set up this trade route called silk route that connected India to Tibet and later other cities also became part of it, eventually making it the largest network of trading. This route re-shaped the way people did trade and exchanged cultural ideas. This route passed through Lhasa, Nathu La and Jelep La Pass and finally reached the port of Tamralipta (present Tamluk in West Bengal) from where it took to the sea and reached far east.
Located on this route in lower Himalayas of East Sikkim is a beautiful small village Zuluk. It was once a transit point to the historic Silk Road from Tibet to India. There is also an Indian Army base at Zuluk, which has been used as a transit camp for the army movement to the Chinese border hence permit is required to visit Zuluk and beyond which can be obtained from Rongli (between 10am -2pm). You can also sign up for the Sikkim trip on this route with ChaloLetsGo

Beautiful zig zag roads, amazing view of Kanchenjunga throuhout, varied flora and fauna and lovely locals... all this makes the drive from Zuluk to Thambi one of the most beautiful drives of India.

The zig-zag road - The road through Zuluk has almost 32 hairpin turns and is no less than a wonder. Driving on this road is any road-tripper's dream. Mt Kanchandjunga will follow you throughout the drive. The landscape views are truly breathtaking especially during the sunset.

Varied flora and fauna: Zuluk has high diversity of Himalayan flora and fauna. The place shelters variety of birds like Monal Pheasant, Blood Pheasant, Khaleez Pheasant, Snow Pheasant and others. You may also catch a glimpse of Himalayan Weasel, Red Panda, wild dog and deer in the high hills.

Amazing view of Kanchenjunga: 14 kms away from Zuluk is Thambi View Point that offers a panoramic view of the entire Mt. Kanchenjungha range. Watching the sunrise over Mt. Kanchenjunga and its allied peaks from Thambi View Point at 11,200 feet is a surreal experience. The golden rays of rising sun kiss the snow clad peak of Kanchenjunga, which slowly turns crimson and then golden and finally silver. The spectacle is truly breathtaking.

Zuluk is accessible throughout the year. During winter Zuluk faces high snow fall and freezing temperatures and in summers are wet and foggy here. During summer Zuluk and its surrounding hills remain covered with different kind of blooming rhododendron flowers.

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2015 - Year of Celebrating Life Chaloletsgo way!

January and February were spent with golden deer and peacocks
at Kanha and then at Dudhwa;
Experienced life by the banks of river Ganga in March at Varanasi
And played Holi the festival of colors with people from all over the world at Pushkar;
April was spent chasing birds at Pangot
And Chopta amazed me by its beauty in May;

Celebrated mother-daughter relationship at Mukteshwar in June;
And July was full of adventure on road at Ladakh;
Kangra valley was at its best when I visited in August
And Spiti valley welcomed me with smiles in September;
Thoroughly enjoyed walking on the clouds at Sikkim in November
And the year was ended well in the arms of the Desert Thar.

Thanks 2015, you treated me really well.
Welcome 2016, I am sure you will be no less.

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Chopta - Tungnath Trek

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.” ~ John Muir

We started our journey with this thought in mind with a lively bunch of people from Delhi. Our first halt was at Rishikesh where we reached late in the evening. The walk absorbing the silence and beauty of the starry night brought us out of the humdrum of city life. A perfect start to a holiday in the lap of nature.

We woke up to a beautiful wet morning. Earth was fresh as dew and atmosphere was filled with the fragrance of flowers and foliage. Morning tea never felt so refreshing like it did that day.

Refreshing morning at Rishikesh

Singing, chatting, laughing and enjoying the drive through dense forests and Himalayan villages we reached CHOPTA. Clean roads, sweet breeze carrying the fragrance of nature and chirping birds welcomed us.
We had driven deep into the pines to reach this remote place where there were no mobile signals and no electricity. Such a respite it was to be cut off from the world in this paradise. We were awestruck to see the lush green meadows and dense forest. Everyone just refused to settle in rooms and were out in the woods. Some were walking silently just enjoying the serenity while others were chasing birds and clicking while some others were just sitting with their feet dipped in chilled water. It took some time to get them all together to enjoy the tea.

Evening tea in the lap of nature, literally

It was a breathtakingly beautiful, dark yet glowing mysterious full moon night. The clouds were playing hide and seek with the moon. The trees were standing tall trying to reach out to the moon while the meadows silently lying down enjoying the glow of moon light.  The only sounds in this dark night were of the stream nearby and of howling wolfs that were adding to the mystic feel to the night. The sky was studded with numerous big and small starts shining bright giving competition to the moon. Never before have I witnessed a night so beautifully mysterious.

A short break during the trek

We started our trek on this gorgeous hilly terrain early in the morning. While take careful steps on the wet, a bit slippery paved path through thick forest of rhododendrons and oak, it was difficult to imagine our life back in the
city.
The deep valleys, the lush green open meadows and the magnificent Himalayan ranges make you feel so tiny. We were transported to a different world altogether.
Different plantations - algae, mushrooms and what not attracted our fancy. We were going pretty slow enjoying and absorbing each step and turn of the trek. 4 hrs trek would take the whole day it seemed. But whats the hurry, we took our own sweet time to climb up and reached Tungnath in the later half of the day.

Different plantations attracted our fancy

We were all hungry when we reached. After having maggi as an appetizer we had nice local dal and rice. Once our tummies were full we looked around and realized where have we reached. A small place with couple of shops, very few people... rather just a few shop owners around, and a temple, TUNGNATH.
High above the clouds lay this quaint place called Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple in the world. We went a little farther and reached the end of a cliff. Surrounded by the curtain of clouds we found ourself standing on the edge. On one side were the snow covered peaks and on the other side was this deep valley.

At The Edge of The Cliff

In no time fog engulfed the whole valley and everything got out of site. We were not even visible to each other. One wrong step and we would have gone deep down the cliff. We decided to settle in the temple guest house for some time to regain our energy.

It was all so quiet when we came out after a few hours . The area was still under the cover of fog, when we heard the temple bells ringing. It was evening aarti. The thick fog started to disperse and visibility kept increasing with increasing volume of ringing bells. We could see the blue sky appearing magically from behind the clouds. Sun was about to set and there was amazing play of evening light in the sky. The golden reflection of setting sun on snow covered peaks made them glow like gold. and the sky turned orange with the spread of evening colors.

The Magical Evening

Can't say if God exist or it's just the faith of people, but the magic moment I witnessed up there makes me believe in the Ultimate power that created universe - the magnificent nature and its miraculous beauty. We were all mesmerized by the nature's show that we just witnessed. The ringing of bells stopped and gradually darkness engulfed the whole valley. The whole universe seemed to be in synchronization.

Night was no less engaging. It was more than 12 of us in a small kitchen cum sitting area of Raju hearing his stories over dinner celebrating life and rejoicing our togetherness. He is one of the survivors of the Kedarnath tragedy that happened a year before. Talking to him we realized how connected these people are to nature and how well they have understood the zist of life while we city people are still stuck in the frantic race of life.


Plan it with Chaloletsgo!

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In the shadow of Dhauladhars

Gossip session in the morning with bed tea in hand was followed by digging into steaming hot aalu puri as sweet rays of winter sun warmed our bodies.

Of all the hill stations in the North, Kangra valley rarely vies for attention with gimmicky spells. But perhaps that’s where its charm lies. Snuggling up to the snow capped Dhauladhar range, this valley in Himachal is a weekend getaway from Delhi with its scenic viewpoints, hidden monasteries and warm people. It has something to offer to everyone, amazing landscapes and lush green forests for photographers and nature lovers, serene monasteries hidden in the pines for those looking for some quietude and activities like paragliding and trekking for the adventurous lot.

Embracing the Cool Winds at Billing 

It was a clear day, perfect for paragliding. We were now heading to Billing, one of the world’s best Paragliding sites. Zigzag ways, deep valley on one side and snow covered high hills on the other and chilled air kissing our faces. The paragliding team was headed by Sonu. Sitting at the height of 2290m above sea level, looking at the horizon and sipping hot tea in chilling weather was something we will cherish throughout our lives. Exalted hearts, nervous minds and shivering bodies. Right direction and velocity of wind was required to jump off the cliff. Our pilots were experts in judging the right moment and encouraging us to jump. All the nervousness disappeared as soon as we were in the air. Then it was all excitement of flying up above the deep valleys and high mountains. The feeling while you are up there is beyond words.

Paragliding at Billing

Landing was trickier than the take off. Along with the right direction and velocity of air, folding legs in a specific way was also required. Follow the instruction exactly as given by your instructor or else break your legs, we were told. We opted to follow the instructions. We were all dead tired after this soul stirring experience. Not just exciting but it was also a good learning experience - trust and confidence in your instructor, perfect coordination, taking timely decisions and much more.

Celebrating Life with Lively Monks at Shera Bling monastery, Bhattu

Tucked away from the town, just a few kilometers west of Bir in Upper Bhattu, is this sprawling Tibetan Buddhist monastery and retreat complex. Situated in the midst of lush green pine forested foothills of the Kangra Valley, Palpung Shera Bling monastery is the place to relax and celebrate life, leaving behind all the worries and hassles.  

Serene walk around Shera Bling monastery Bhattu

A quiet walk through the pine forest with colorful Buddhist prayer flags on the sides of the road guided us to the monastery.  While we were taking a look at the magnificent monastery building, the magical drum beats compelled our attention. We followed the beats and found that they were coming from the 3^rd floor. The monks, young and old, were engrossed in the rehearsals. The monastery will host bi-annual Lama-dances in its premises we were told, of which the practice sessions were going on. Celebration of life in the midst of serene nature, glowing jovial faces of kids, youth and old alike, we felt as if we have reached some different world altogether where people knew no sorrow.  After having Thukpa and tea, being served by most friendly people in the café outside the monastery we proceeded further.

Rediscovering History at Ancient Shiva Temple, Baijnath

On our way back to the hotel we visited the ancient Shiva temple in Baijnath.  13th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva has been continuously under worship ever since its construction in 1204 A.D.

Old Shiva Temple, Baijnath

The temple is a beautiful work of the early medieval north Indian Temple architecture known as Nagara style of temples. Baijnath being my birth place, this temple holds special importance for me. We, as kids, used to come here every evening with our parents. While they used to offer prayers, we would spend time playing in the well maintained garden just outside the temple. I still have very fond memories of grand 5 day celebrations on maha shivratri in the temple. All the members, including kids of the family would get up early morning, take bath and rush to the temple and this routine would go on for the whole week.  Decorated with marigold flowers all over, temple looked so different in those 5 days. Thronged by numerous devotees from all over the state, we had to wait for hours just to get a glimpse of the inside of the temple that’s so easy to approach on any normal day.  Today while visiting it with people from other cities and narrating to them the whole childhood experience I relived those childhood memories.

That was the moment when we realized that it’s time to say goodbye to this serene land. With heavy hearts we left the beautiful valley but we were happy to have gathered so many memorable moments and have made friends for life.

The Guide

Kangra Valley is situated in Himachal Pradesh, India. The valley has an average elevation of 2000 ft. The highest peak on the Dhauladhar range which marks the boundary of the valley reaches 15,956 ft.

FACT SHEET

Getting there

·     By Rail :  The nearest broad gauge railway station is at Pathankot placed at a distance of about 90 km from Kangra. There is frequent bus service and taxis are also available from Pathankot. One can also take narrow guage rail from here.

·     Air: The nearest airport to reach Kangra is Gaggal airport, placed at distance of 13 kms from Kangra city. Taxi cabs are available from there. The taxi fare varies depends on the season. Typically taxi charges are Rs.300.

·     By Road: Kangra is approximately 450kms from Delhi. It is around 10hrs drive and roads are in good condition.

Getting Around

You’ll need a car to travel around. Hire a taxi from Pathankot, if you have come by rail or from Kangra, if you have come by air. 

The areas of interests in and around Kangra valley are Palampur, Baijnath, Bir, Billing, Bhattu, Kangra fort and Mcleodganj.

Recommended stay: http://www.homestaysofindia.com/properties/palampur-homestay/

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Kasol – A Sleepy Paradise

Driving along river Parvati and passing through lush green pine forest and lovely villages we reached Kasol.

DAY ONE – Exploring relaxed village and lazy market

We could feel the relaxed fresh air as soon as we stepped out of the car after crossing a small wooden bridge in the middle of a market. The market was quiet with only a very few shops open preparing for the day when we reached. After settling down in a family run guest house "Rainbow", we decided to be the first customer of a dhaba just outside the guest house. Butter toast with omelette was enough to charge me for my first few hours at Kasol.

We spent some time absorbing the calm of the place sitting on huge boulders at the banks of the river and then exploring the village. Kasol at the height of 1640 meters is a quiet peaceful village situated 6 kms short of Manikaran in the Parvati valley and is surrounded by mountain ranges.

The market area has a few guest houses and not more than 100 shops within 2 kms area. The village has traditional wooden houses having slanted roofs of black slates.

There's a great variety of food to munch on in this little town. Right from Israeli cuisine to Italian, Indian and Chinese, you can find it all. There are cafes with nice ambience to spend hours at serving best coffee, sandwiches and some awesome bakery.

As soon as we finished our lunch it started drizzling. Light rain and fog enhanced the beauty of the place.  We started walking along the riverside after crossing the bridge connecting Kasol to Chhalal. Nothing but pine trees dotted the entire landscape as the rhythmic sound of gurgling Parvati accompanied us. We stopped regularly to admire and capture the beauty of colorful flowers, lovely birds or just the entire scenery. While returning, a few village ladies washing clothes in the stream caught our attention. A narrow slippery path took us down to them. I was surprised to see a small pond with two entry points - from one natural boiling hot water was coming in and the other was bringing in cold water and an exit. The arrangement was such that the temperature of water in the small pool was just perfect. And this is where the village ladies were washing.  They did not take time to mingle. Looking at my curiosity about their attire one of them offered me to teach how to drape the shawl in peculiar Himachali way. I, like an excited little child, readily agreed.

The evening was spent chilling out in cool cafes, roaming around in the market, shopping hand-knitted woolens and eating to our heart’s content.

DAY TWO – Tete-a-tete with nature

Morning bought with it chilly winds from North. As I stepped out to the balcony of my room I could see the peaks covered with fresh snow that urged me to leave the room and go out for a walk in the woods. Walking on wet ground through narrow lanes and crossing slippery boulders, I reached a vast green open space bordering the river overlooking snow clad peaks, an ideal place for a person like me, a metro-city dweller to unwind. Tall trees wanting to kiss the cotton clouds, cold stream of flowing water eager to reach its beloved, big round boulders enjoying the gentle touch of water, cool breeze trying to whisper a message it has bought from far-away lands and deep blue sky smiling at this romantic setting of nature...  I was lost in the wonderland for quite some time.

When I regained my senses it was a bright sunny day already, so I immediately went back to wake my friends up and start our journey to Tosh. We drove till Tosh via Barshaini. Kasol is also a base for Himalayan trekking to SarPass, Yanker Pass, Pin Parbati Pass and Khiriganga. Tosh was a quaint little village on top of a hill surrounded by stunning snow covered peaks. Simple village people enjoying the small nothings of life made me wonder why we in cities have made our life so complicated.

We lost the track of time while sitting on a huge rock on top of the hill looking at gigantic mountains unmoved by the forces of nature, gushing Parvati River as if trying to tell stories and a small habitat of simple human beings enjoying their existence. 

We bade adieu to the tiny hamlet around evening and started our journey back.

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FAMILIAR STRANGERS

In this genaration of solo-traveling, I feel proud to have travelled with Familiar strangers. I like to travel with strangers who connect to me for their love for travel and exploration. And in course of our journey, we not only explore the place but also make friends with some lovely people. FAMILIAR STRANGERS is what I call them. 

I get awestruck to look back and realize how many different familiar strangers I have made friends with in these couple of years. 

An ever-excited old retired scientist who never want to be called old, has lost his life partner when he needed her the most and now travels to steal some lively moments with co-travelers; a young loving couple who’s full of love and appreciation for each other and is traveling to understand life from each other’s perspective; a middle aged strong single lady who is self-dependent and living her life on her own terms for whom traveling is a part of life; an ambitious young man who draws inspiration from “himself-some-years-from-now” and is traveling as he finds a sense of accomplishment by ticking it off his must-visit list; a young chirpy independent girl who has perfectly learnt to hide her sorrow behind her smile and for whom travel is a good way of understanding herself a little more; an old adorable married couple who wants to explore together the maximum while they can. And stranger is the fact that I can relate to each one of them. Some remind me of my loneliness, some of my urge to be independent, some of my romantic self and some of my hunger to live life to the fullest. I wonder how similar we all are… going through similar emotions, sentiments and passion to live life in a best possible way in given conditions. We just need to connect and travel gives me that opportunity.

Thank you all familiar strangers… I’ve learnt many lessons of life through you.

KEEP TRAVELLING AND LIVING!

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A dreamy (?!) night at Katarnia Ghat Wildlife Sanctuary

I got one more reason to love Dudhwa…

Dudhwa has always been my favorite when it comes to wildlife and after this visit ( Feb' 2014), I got one more reason to love it - Katarnia Ghat Wildlife Sanctuary, some 100 kilometers from Dudhwa National Park. 

After exploring Dudhwa National park and  Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary, we were all set for Katarnia Ghat Wildlife Sanctuary.  A beautiful drive through villages of UP and then alongside a river for a few kilometers took us to a small village called Bichia. Our GPS also failed us after reaching a point. Guide Sanu accompanied us from here to the forest rest house. We drove through 10kms of dense forest of Sal, teak and lots of other varieties of plantations. The sun rays were struggling to reach the ground… it seemed as if all the trees and the shrubs have conspired against the ground and joined hands to seize all the light that sun has to offer. Driving through this magical way with rich flora on both sides and fauna that our eyes could not locate, we felt like drifting through some magical land - the fragrance of the jungle, the silence that is being disturbed by occasional chirping of birds and chatter of monkeys, the cool fresh air that we could feel on our faces.  

The dreamland…

My already excited heart leaped with happiness when we reached there. The sun was about to bid adieu. Golden rays of sun reaching the ground after filtering through the leaves created an atmosphere that seemed no less than a dreamland to me. As a child I have always dreamt of a house in the lap of nature, and this rest house in the middle of the jungle being caressed by the branches of an old bamboo tree and kissed by the golden sunlight was like a dream come true. 

A hot cup of tea in the cold dreamy evening

After having a hot cup of tea in the cold dreamy evening we accompanied Sanu for a jungle walk.  Walking through this beautiful jungle Sanu told us some facts and figures about it.

The sanctuary was founded in 1975 and is an integral part of the Terai Eco-System along with Dudhwa National Park and Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary. Spread over an area of around 440 square kilometers with sal and teak forests, lush grasslands and wetlands alongside the Girwa River, Katerniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary is located near the Indo-Nepal Border of India in the Bahraich district of Uttar Pardesh bordering Nepal on one side and Dudwa national park on the other.The sanctuary can be experienced driving along a 40 kilometer road that passes through the Motipur , Kakraha , Murthia and Nishangarah Ranges and ends at the Katerniaghat Range.

Home to a large number of mammals that include the Tiger, Elephant, Leopard, Chital, Wildboars, Civets, Mongoose, Wild Cat and Otters, Katerniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary is unique as one can experience and sight the most endangered species at one place. These include the Royal Bengal Tiger, Ghariyal, Gangatic Dolphin and the critically endangered vultures. This combination is hard to see in any other forest. A pair of albino Chital and a black leopard has also been sighted in the Nishangarah Range.

The forest at places is dominated by the Sal Tree and Asna. Other flora includes Haldu, Kusum. and Rohini trees.Teak with others tree like Chamraudhi and Jamun are also in abundance. The grassland consists of species like Saccharum munja, Shaccharum spontaneum, and Antidon and it has irregular plantations of trees like Khair, Semal and Shisha. Peepal and Bargad trees can also be seen in some areas.

Evening walk through the jungle

The Sanctuary is a bird watchers paradise too. Migratory birds include the Red Creasted Pochards, Tuftted Duck, Greater Creasted Grebe, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail , Northern Shoveler, Bar Headed Goose and Common Pochards. The forest is filled by the songs of the oriole and bulbuls along with the shama and birds like the Greenbilled Malkoha , Sirkeer Malkoha, Yellow footed Green pigeons, Orange Breasted Green Pigeon, Bee Eaters, Red Jungle Fowl and the beautiful Oriental Pied Hornbill along with the Indian Grey Hornbill are also common. Raptors like the Created Serpent Eagle, Fishing Eagle, Vulture, Sikkra Honey Buzzard and Osprey can also be seen. The night sky is dominated by the Indian Nightjar and owls like the Asian Barred Owlet and Spotted Owlet.

Dream turning into a nightmare…

With an anticipation of having a peaceful dreamy night, sleeping in midst of all this wild life hearing the sounds of the jungle, we came back to the rest house and were surprised to see the environment. The dream has been turned into a nightmare. There was a generator breaking the silence, kids running around like in an amusement park, some kids crying at top of their voices and staff running here and there to serve the master… that happens to be some VIP. Not only the silence but the whole atmosphere has been destroyed by the presence of this noisy so-called VIP family.  

I wonder if we humans, who are so used to all this noise, were so disturbed, what effect will this artificially created noise, light and pollution will have on animals and plants of the area to whom the forest belong. We have already captured much of their space…. can’t we leave atleast these sanctuaries and reserve forests for them who deserve to live there peacefully. We spent the night full of anger for those who just don’t know how to behave in a forest and come here to throw their weight around on the staff.

Boat safari in Girwa River…
Morning bought with it some peace. After having light bite we proceeded for boat safari in Girwa River. 

Walking towards the Girwa river

The boatman told us that the river is dominated by the Gharial (alligator) and Muggar (Crocodile) which can be seen basking on the sand bars. Turtle of various kinds can also be seen basking in the sun. One can see the Lesser Whistling Teel in large number and small pranticoles on the sand bar. But it being a foggy day we could not spot any. The unique thing about the river is the presence of the Gangatic Dolphin which playfully jump in the waters of Girwa. The boatman could feel the presence of a baby dolphin and stopped the rudder of the boat for some time. We were floating in the area of the dolphins… and there a sudden splash in the water accredited the presence of a dolphin there.

Floating in the area of the dolphins

On this visit of ours to the Terai Eco-System that includes Dudhwa National Park, Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary and Katerniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary we experienced forest in all possible modes. Elephant safari followed by jeep safari then a jungle walk and then boat safari... What else can a forest lover ask for!

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